It’s all down to hormones! Hormonal breakouts tend to occur on the chin, jaw and mouth just before your period starts. They can occur at any age and can be made worse by lifestyle factors such as insufficient cleansing or poor diet. Just like hormonal breakouts tend to appear during puberty and pregnancy, the changes our bodies go through each month continuously affect our skin.
During the menstrual phase (days 1-7 on average), the hormones progesterone and estrogen are low and prostaglandins are high. At this stage, the skin can be dry due to low oil production, and sensitive and inflamed because the prostaglandins are high. Cue irritated, angry skin in need of some TLC!
As you enter the follicular phase (days 7-14 on average), estrogen rises, and the skin returns to a more homeostatic state. At the end of your period, you may find you get some dryness as your progesterone levels drop along with your production of sebum and oils, but skin tends to appear fresher and clearer as your production of collagen and hyaluronic acid increases.
The ovulation phase (days 14-28 on average) brings a peak in estrogen. In the last few days before your period begins, progesterone levels rise, which means that your sebaceous glands produce more sebum. This spike in progesterone can lead to closed pores, meaning debris and dead skin cells find it more difficult to escape. This leads to the pores becoming clogged up and spots then begin to form.
Periods are what I describe as an intrinsic factor that can affect what happens to your skin. Intrinsic refers to genetics and things that are happening inside the body and are therefore usually outside of your control. Despite this, being able to prepare for the times of the month when your skin might need extra attention is useful, so here are some steps you can take to keep your skin as clear as possible:
Always seek medical advice from your GP if your skin is making you feel low. We are also available to provide nerdie support and advice in the form of tips, skinformation and one-to-one consultations. Click here to find out more.
Glycerin has been relegated to the sides of the stage for too long, but it’s about time this hero hydrator is promoted to prima ballerina in our skincare repertoires. With the power to replenish moisture without clogging pores or causing irritation, this lightweight active ingredient is well deserving of the spotlight.
Glycerin, sometimes referred to as glycerol, is a humectant: a “water molecule” that attracts moisture from the air and retains it within the skin. Glycerin has a low molecular weight, which means it can pull moisture from the stratum corneum, our outermost layer of skin, deep into the dermis, our middle layer of skin, to hydrate the lower levels. Humectants are essential for maintaining healthy, hydrated skin and glycerin is often recognised as the best of the bunch. Other humectants include hyaluronic acid – a hydrator we’re sure most hoomans are familiar with – alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), aloe vera and urea.
The glycerin in our skincare tends to be derived from plants, but did you know it’s a naturally occurring compound within our bodies? Glycerin is present in our skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), alongside a bunch of amino acids and other important components. In a nutshell, our NMF works hard to keep our skin adequately hydrated. Unfortunately, our skin’s NMF can deplete as we get older or be stripped with regular use of harsh skincare products, which can result in tight, dehydrated skin. Glycerin can help to replenish the NMF, which in turn keeps the skin supple, soft and hydrated.
More nerdiness: Super Soothing Skincare Treats
Glycerin has been inducted into my skincare “hall of fame” partly because it’s a hydrator that all skin types can safely use. It’s perfect for oily and acne-prone skin because it’s non-comedogenic, which means that it won’t clog pores or cause pesky breakouts. Nerdie tip: glycerin can be present in formulas that contain other comedogenic (read: pore-clogging) substances – so always check if the product has been labelled as non-comedogenic. What’s more, glycerin is a very gentle ingredient, which means that it shouldn’t irritate sensitive skin – unless you’re one of the unlucky few that’s allergic to the hydrator.
It goes without saying that dry skin types should get involved. Although, I would take it one step further and combine glycerin, the “moisture magnet”, with a form of occlusive, such as shea butter, squalene or beeswax. Humectants work to replenish moisture levels within the skin, while occlusives reinforce the skin barrier to prevent precious moisture from escaping through the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin. Using an occlusive at night-time is especially important for dry or dehydrated skin – a skin condition whereby the skin lacks water – because more moisture evaporates through the skin as we snooze. This is a natural process called trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).
To be honest, glycerin might already be lurking in some of the skincare products that are sitting pretty on your shelfie. We’d bet our bottom dollar that if you check your products’ INCI lists you’ll notice glycerin – it's a mainstay in many skincare products and for good reason. I tend to find glycerin in my water-based cleansers and hydrating serums, mists and moisturisers.
Naturally, glycerin is the star ingredient in one of my favourite facial mists, the Caudalie Beauty Elixir. I adore spritz o’clock because it serves the skin an instant boost of hydration that can be enjoyed anywhere and everywhere – in the car, at your desk, at a restaurant. I find that the Caudalie spritz soothes my skin when it’s dehydrated (read: tight, tired and dull) with its blend of glycerin and rose flower oil, an antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and pollution.
Glycerin can feel sticky on the skin, which is why it's commonly combined with other humectants to provide a smoother texture. The Pestle & Mortar Hyaluronic Acid Serum contains glycerin alongside a moisture-boosting blend of low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate (aka hyaluronic acid), which can penetrate deep into the dermis, and aloe barbadensis leaf juice – which are both powerful humectants. It can be used on all skin types and has been formulated with a dash of vitamin E to provide antioxidant protection.
As I mentioned previously, dry and dehydrated skin will benefit from an emollient that’s enriched with glycerin, as well as occlusive ingredients, and the Gilda Liljeblad Fortifying Barrier Cream ticks all the right boxes. It contains glycerin to hydrate, shea butter (an occlusive) to nourish and reinforce the skin barrier to prevent moisture loss, apricot oil (another occlusive) to relieve sensitive skin and strengthen the skin barrier, and niacinamide to increase collagen synthesis for plumper skin.
Are you tempted by glycerin’s hydrating prowess? If so, and you’d like a little skincare guidance, why not book an online skin consultation with our team of expert Nerds – they’ll build you a bespoke skincare routine suited to your skin, budget and commitment level. Plus, you'll become an official Skin Nerd Networker and have access to tonnes of exclusive content.
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Hoomans with sensitive skin are often left playing a mystifying game of whodunnit. Maybe it’s the new acid that’s been introduced to your regime, a work deadline you’re stressed about, or a particularly windy day that’s the culprit for a spell of irritated, inflamed skin.
Whether you’re oily, combination or dry, anyone can have sensitive skin. In fact, a survey in the United Kingdom found that a mahoosive 51.4% of women and 38.2% of men considered their skin to be sensitive.
In a nutshell, sensitive skin can be described as reactive. By that we mean sensitive skin has a low tolerance threshold that reacts to many stimuli and can manifest itself as a stinging, burning, or itchy sensation.
You might be surprised to hear that sensitive skin is inherited – so you can thank your ‘rents. There are many factors which can trigger a flare-up when you’ve got reactive skin, including skincare and makeup, the weather (come wind or shine), warm and cold temperatures, pollutants, allergens, stress, and hormones.
Those with sensitive skin may also suffer from inflammatory skin conditions such as atopic dermatitis, rosacea, and psoriasis, which all come with their own hurdles. Although noticeably, they all have one thing in common, a compromised skin barrier.
Let’s get nerdie! A reaction in sensitive skin is the result of our stratum corneum (aka the outermost layer of skin) becoming permeable when exposed to a trigger. That means our skin barrier is weakened to the point where it allows more substances to penetrate through. These substances can stimulate an inflammatory response in the skin which induces neurotransmitters and irritates our nerve endings.
As more substances enter with a compromised skin barrier, more moisture escapes. In fact, measuring trans epidermal water loss can help to diagnose if a person has sensitive skin. This is when moisture is lost from our skin to the atmosphere while we’re sleeping, and key skin functions like cell renewal and cellular repair are being performed. That’s why sensitivity and dryness commonly come part and parcel.
Say you’ve always considered your skin to be “normal”, but you’re suddenly experiencing tightness and itching sensations with visible redness. We’d bet our bottom dollar that’s because your skin has become sensitised – it’s not sensitive, there’s a difference.
Sensitive skin is genetic while sensitised skin can pass as rapidly as it appears. Like those with sensitive skin, sensitisation occurs because your skin barrier has been weakened by a trigger. Perhaps you’ve gone ham on salicylic acid? Or used vitamin A and glycolic acid in the same evening
Luckily for you, there’s light at the end of the tunnel. The skin injury will heal, and inflammation will go down if you use hydrating, barrier-repairing skincare ingredients and ease up on the actives.
The number one offender in our hit list is fragrance. These inessential additives can irritate sensitive skin and cause vasodilation which in turn stimulates an inflammatory response. This can also cause pigmentary issues with prolonged usage. We preach that smells don’t change cells, because they don’t. Look out for mentions of parfum, perfume, essential oils extract on your skincare and body care products.
It’s important that you swot up on your cleansing technique, too. Over cleansing, especially if you’re using cleansers with active ingredients, can strip your skin barrier and disrupt the skin’s natural pH balance. Naturally, skin scrubs are also the ultimate skin sin where sensitivity is concerned (or any skin type for that matter, ditch the scrubs).
Be as gentle and light as possible when cleansing or applying your topical skincare. That’s why we like using a pre-cleansing tool like the Cleanse Off Mitt as its microfibre material won't overstimulate or irritate the skin.
Unfortunately, we’re about to trample on your love for hot, steamy showers and baths... but warm temperatures (and super cold temperatures, too!) will trigger a flare-up in sensitive skin. So, bathe and cleanse your skin with tepid water to avoid inflammation. For the sake of irritated skin, we’d steer clear of excessive caffeine, smoking, and alcohol consumption, too.
More nerdiness: active cleansing versus passive cleansing
Replenishing the moisture that’s lost through our weakened skin barrier is key to soothing sensitive skin. Enter humectants: moisture-binding substances that attract water molecules from the environment and second layer of our skin (aka dermis) to moisturise the outer most layer of skin (aka epidermis).
Rather impressively, hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that can hold up to 1,000x its weight in water. It’s a naturally occurring molecule in our body but production begins to slow down in our mid-twenties. The Pestle & Mortar Hyaluronic Acid Serum contains sodium hyaluronate, a low molecular form of hyaluronic acid, which can penetrate deeper because of its smaller size. It also contains glycerin, another humectant, for maximum hydration station.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (aka AHAs) are fabulous humectants with skin sloughing superpowers. However, high concentrations of these exfoliating acids can be irritating to sensitive skin. That’s why we’d steer reactive skinned hoomans toward a polyhydroxy acid (aka PHA) which is a gentler form of AHA.
The Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanse contains polyhydroxy acid to shed dead skin cells and draw moisture toward the epidermis, alongside prebiotics and probiotics which balance the skin’s delicate microbiome.
A study that was published in the journal Maturitas in 1998 found that using emollients (moisturisers) on menopausal women with sensitive skin improved skin barrier function. A fortified skin barrier will protect the skin’s moisture stores and stop external aggressors from entering and wreaking havoc. That’s why we’d recommend a moisturiser that’s brimming with barrier-repairing ingredients which strengthen the lipid bilayer, an important part of the skin barrier.
Ceramides are lipids (aka fatty molecules) that are naturally produced by our skin and key components of our lipid bilayer. Like all good things – think collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid – ceramides deplete as we age. Skingredients Skin Good Fats is a thick buttery balm that contains skin-native lipid ceramide NP to boost skin barrier function and prevent dehydration. The night cream also contains avena sativa (oat) kernel extract which is a hero ingredient for sensitive or irritated skin as it soothes itchiness.
Niacinamide (aka vitamin B3) is an overachieving antioxidant that dually protects skin from free radical damage and stimulates ceramide synthesis to improve skin barrier function. By boosting the production of lipids in the bilayer, niacinamide aids water retention and supports overall skin structure. You’ll find niacinamide in Skin Good Fats, as well as the ASAP Skincare Super B Complex. The Super B Complex contains niacinamide to increase ceramide production and hyaluronic acid to replenish moisture in dehydrated skin.
Anti-inflammatory ingredients are a must-have if you’re a sensitive skinned hooman that often falls victim to red, burning, and tight skin. These calming heroes are effective, incredibly gentle, and won’t exacerbate any flare-ups in reactive skin. They work hard to reduce the inflammation caused by external triggers and heal, relieve, and soothe irritated or damaged skin.
The IMAGE Ormedic Balancing Facial Cleanser contains an organic blend of anti-inflammatory ingredients such as aloe vera, green tea extracts, and chamomile extract. Aloe vera speeds up wound healing and is a humectant which draws moisture into the skin, green tea extract is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin, and chamomile extract which has antibacterial properties. It's great for sensitive skin as it will cleanse without upsetting the skin’s natural balance.
Calendula extract is another anti-inflammatory that will calm redness in inflamed skin. The REN Evercalm Global Protection Day Cream contains calendula which aids skin repair, and blackcurrant seed oil and Seabuckthorn berry oil which are rich in omega 3 and omega 7 to smooth the skin.
If you suffer from sensitive skin and would value a little guidance on skincare to use and avoid, we'd love it if you booked an online skin consultation with our expert team of Nerds. Click here to find out more!
]]>Stress and misbehaving skin often go hand in hand. Just when you’re faced with a job interview, house move, or worldwide pandemic, it’s sod’s law that blemishes or a skin condition will conveniently flare-up.
That’s all because of our brain-to-skin connection. An article published in the Inflammation & Allergy Drug Targets (2004) notes that emotions, hormone levels and psychological factors can all impact our skin’s health and exacerbate any skin conditions.
Since stress affects our body, mind, and spirit, taking a multi-pronged approach to alleviate stress and help soothe our skin woes is key. Keep reading for our nerdie reasoning behind stressed-out skin and some research-backed remedies that can help manage mental, physical or emotional stress.
]]>That’s all because of our brain-to-skin connection. An article published in the Inflammation & Allergy Drug Targets (2004) notes that emotions, hormone levels and psychological factors can all impact our skin’s health and exacerbate any skin conditions.
Since stress affects our body, mind, and spirit, taking a multi-pronged approach to alleviate stress and help soothe our skin woes is key. Keep reading for our nerdie reasoning behind stressed-out skin and some research-backed remedies that can help manage mental, physical or emotional stress.
When we’re stressed our body responds by producing cortisol (the stress hormone). Now, cortisol isn’t the bad guy: low levels of cortisol are essential for our bodies to manage stress, it puts us into “fight-or-flight" mode.
We only run into trouble when experiencing prolonged or chronic stress as this causes cortisol levels to go through the roof. Huge doses of cortisol can have a negative effect on the skin: think acne, dry skin, or flare-ups of inflammatory conditions such as rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis.
Too much cortisol, epinephrine (adrenaline) and norepinephrine (noradrenaline) disrupt the balance of our sex hormones, oestrogen, and testosterone, which regulate key skin functions like oil production. In essence, that means our sebaceous glands are stimulated to churn out more sebum which can then clog our pores and breed more blemishes.
Salicylic acid is fabulous for regulating oil production and keeping blemishes at bay which makes it an oily or acne-prone hooman’s best friend. It’s a BHA that’s oil-soluble which means it can penetrate the lipid layers of your skin to dissolve sebum. The Skingredients Sally Cleanse (€25.00) contains 2% salicylic acid to purge pores of sebum and gently exfoliate to slough away dead skin cells.
Similarly, an increased cortisol level weakens our immune system which activates the skin’s mast cells and causes an inflammatory response such as an eczema, rosacea or psoriasis flare-up. The National Rosacea Society conducted a survey on rosacea patients which found that 79% cited emotional stress as a common trigger for flare-ups. This creates a vicious cycle in hoomans with inflammatory skin conditions, as the stress from a flare-up can prolong and exacerbate symptoms.
Vitamin A is a superstar antioxidant that has been proven to bring down inflammation and help to regulate oil production. The Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 1 (€57.00) includes introductory amounts of vitamin A and vitamin C, an antioxidant that helps to bring down redness.
Eating the good stuff – we're talking lots of vibrant veg, fruit, oily fish, and nuts – will nourish your body as well as your mind. The NHS states that “eating a healthy, balanced diet is an important part of maintaining good health, and can help you feel your best.”
Vitamin C (found in peppers, oranges and broccoli) is crucial in your diet when battling stress as it regulates cortisol levels in your bloodstream. Healthy fats, like omega 3s, help to bring down inflammation, so load up on salmon, tuna and walnuts. Whereas magnesium (found in spinach, avocado and legumes) aids the brain functions that reduce anxiety.
A nerdie interlude: good food equals a good mood (and skin) because of our brain-gut-skin axis. The American Psychological Association states that our “gut bacteria manufacture about 95 percent of the body's supply of serotonin [our natural feel-good chemical]”. So, it’s super important you’re getting the right nutrition and cutting back on your intake of caffeine and processed foods.
Yep, we’re talking about stress-relieving herbs. Hear us out! Adaptogens are herbs that assist your body’s stress responses when digested (although it can be applied topically to your skin as well). A 6-week study on human participants in Nepal (2006), found that Tulsi, otherwise known as holy basil, helped to relieve stress, anxiety and depression, and improve sleep. The Hush & Hush Mind Your Mind supplements (€55.00 for 60) include holy basil in its soothing recipe to calm nerves and help hoomans have restful sleeps.
Exercise and meditation will stimulate the release of endorphins: feel-good neurotransmitters that create a sense of well-being and reduce stress. Sometimes simplicity is key: having a walk is a great way to lift and lighten your mood. A study conducted in 2018 found that there were noticeable psychological benefits from participants walking through forest areas as stress levels were reduced. But don’t worry city folk, any walk is guaranteed to clear your mind!
Similarly, a regular yoga session works wonders for instilling peace and releasing negative feelings. It’s especially important for hoomans that work at a desk (that’s us nerds, too) who feel like they need to stretch their limbs and improve posture. A study on the effects of yoga on stress found that participants who were involved in regular yoga sessions over a 16-week period had better psychological health.
Here’s permission to belt out your favourite song, no matter how terrible you sound. A study into the effects of music and our mental wellbeing found that listening to your favourite tunes or regularly singing reduced anxiety and lifted hoomans’ spirits — in teenagers and older adults.
]]>Do you want your skin to feed as snug and soothed as you do under about twenty duvets, cup of peppermint tea in hand and The Crown playing on Netflix? We can relate. This time of year, it’s all about hunkering down and making cosiness an art-form.
Bracing walks out in the winter air combined with central heating and any tendencies of your skin can mean that you might be feeling a little skin-sensitive about the moment. Winter is a common time of year for skin for to feel sensitive, stripped, and in need of a big skincare hug.
]]>Bracing walks out in the winter air combined with central heating and any tendencies of your skin can mean that you might be feeling a little skin-sensitive about the moment. Winter is a common time of year for skin for to feel sensitive, stripped, and in need of a big skincare hug.
The winter season has us making our peace with rapidly changing temperatures, hot to cold, as we move from indoors to outdoors. Wind can affect our skin’s barrier too.
Combine this with potential disruptions in sleep, exercise, and even stress (oh, yes), and it’s a recipe that will need some serious skin-soothing to sort.
If you find your skin becoming a little redder as the winter months draw on, it can be a sign of an impaired skin barrier. Your skin barrier helps to keep hydration inside and keep irritants out. Your skin barrier can become stripped or impaired through the repetition of cold weather - but it can also be the way your skin tends! If you’ve always had sensitive skin, then you were born with a weakened skin barrier. If you overuse certain skincare ingredients, you can sensitise your skin, which makes it more prone to inflammation due to a weakened skin barrier.
An impaired skin barrier means that your skin loses more moisture than it would normally, and this dehydration can make your skin appear red and inflamed, and feel itchy and uncomfortable.
If you usually suffer from redness, the cold weather of winter might have you flaring up more than usual. If you suffer from rosacea, you’ll probably find that the rapid changes from hot to cold as well as the dry indoor air as we blast central heating all conspire to chip away at your skin barrier and make you more red-faced than usual.
Vitamin C is a great choice for red skin, as it’s a powerful antioxidant which can turn down the dial on redness and help to protect your skin from environmental stressors, too. Vitamin C supports collagen synthesis and collagen is the protein that keeps our capillaries strong – when our capillaries are strong, we will see fewer damaged capillaries and reduced redness.
Skingredients Skin Protein is part of the Skingredients Core 4 range. It’s suitable for twice-daily use and is rich in vitamins A, C, and E – as well as containing a pro-collagen peptide, and a host of antioxidants, too. You can also bring Solgar Ester-C Plus 1000mg Vitamin C into your supplement routine if you want to C some results.
Rapid changes in temperature can make your skin overproduce oil. If your skin becomes dehydrated, the natural response of skin is to produce oil to try and counteract this dryness. The overproduction of oil can lead to breakouts and flareups as this oil clogs pores and forms spots!
Keeping salicylic acid on hand is the perfect plan of action for busting breakouts in the winter months (and all year around if we’re being perfectly honest).
Salicylic-acid is an oil-soluble exfoliating acid which is perfect for cutting through oil in pores and dissolving blockages which might otherwise lead to spots and blackheads!
Our salicylic acid must-haves are Skingredients Sally Cleanse and Environ Sebu-Wash. Use them both as directed by your Nerd or Nerdette or the packaging – salicylic acid means business!
You might find that eczema flares in the winter months as we raise the temperature of our baths, but you can reduce the potential itch by bringing the thermostat down on your bath, and choosing a moisturiser which will soothe and nourish your skin. It might be worth considering a humidifier to keep your skin hydrated. (Pro tip: you can often drop a few drops of essential oil into your humidifier to flood the room with a delightful scent!)
With all of this in mind, here’s some of our top picks for soothing skin during the winter months – little treats for hard done by skin to feel a little pep of luxury!
Skingredients Skin Good Fats
This moisturiser and night cream was called a ‘a hug in a tub’ by the fabulous Eva of Skingredients Project Love Your Skin, and we’ve got to agree. Skin Good Fats contains the skin-native lipid (fat), ceramide NP which can help to restore and soothe your skin’s barrier. It also contains a patented anti-itch ingredient – perfect for smoothing on after cleansing and serum-ing for skin which is prone to itchiness and discomfort.
We know we’ve mentioned a lot of Skingredients here, but we are very knowledgeable on the formulations – for obvious reasons!
Avène Soothing Radiance Mask
For skin which is prone to reaction but loves the feeling of luxury, the Avène Soothing Radiance Mask is a perfect choice. Infused with the thermal water of Avene and Red-fruit extract and safflower oil to replenish the skin barrier, boost radiance and promote optimal skin hydration. The mask’s formula is designed to leave the skin looking radiant and, feeling smooth, supple and nourished. Leave it on overnight on top of your serums or apply for 15 minutes to cleansed skin for best results!
Murad Sensitive Skin Soothing Serum
This serum protects and soothes sensitive skin while minimizing redness. Locks in moisture and helps restore suppleness and resiliency. Apply it post-cleanse twice a day for best, skin soothing results!
Jane Iredale D2O Hydration Spray
This spritz is perfect for hydrating and plumping skin, as well as calming and nourishing it. Perfect for setting mineral makeup and for soothing skin post laser treatment. It is certified organic, too! Apply liberally as often as you please!
If winter skin is giving you grief, you can get in touch with your Nerd or Nerdette for a follow-up consultation and another round of personalised skincare advice to suit the changing seasons!
]]>Let us guess: in teenage years (or maybe beyond – look, we’re not going to judge you too harshly), you might have been a devotee of some gorgeously scented, lushly beaded scrub-a-dub products. Maybe they were directed for spot-prone skin, maybe they were just part of your normal skincare routine, and maybe they were a once-in-a-blue-moon treat for the skin. The fact is that skincare evolves over time (just like us!) what we adored when we were teens is probably not going to be the best choice for us these days.
The reason that we don’t advocate for mechanical scrubs (read: grain-based scrubs) is because they can easily over-exfoliate skin. This process can lead to skin becoming red, shiny, and even a little bit rash-prone.
Chemical exfoliants (like acids) do this by dissolving the bonds between cells while physical exfoliants (like scrubs, washcloths, and brushes) use friction to physically scrape them off. Even retinoids like adapalene and tretinoin can aid in the process by speeding up the cell turnover process rather than washing dead cells away from the outside.
Our favourite nerdie analogy is to compare exfoliation to chipping away at the roof of a house. A mechanical exfoliant scrubs at the top layer of the tiles to chip away at them physically, but a chemical exfoliant drips between the tiles to help to dissolve the bonds between the tiles and loosen them so they come away super easily.
If you’re curious about exfoliating acids and want the best choice for your skin, then we definitely suggest that you get in touch with your Nerd or Nerdette for their keen observations and opinions. In the meantime, here are a few of our favourite exfoliating acids, and some broad-strokes recommendations!
Gluconolactone
This particular exfoliating acid is so gently that some hoomans might leave it off the list entirely, but the fact is that PHAS or polyhydroxy acids are gentle, yet effective exfoliators which deserve a little more airtime.
Gluconolactone is an effective exfoliant which is effective without causing redness or sensitivity.
You can find gluconolactone in Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanse. This is a hydrating daily cleanser which is suitable for all hoomans, all skin. It’s so gently exfoliating that we still think you can use it as often as you like. Particularly excellent as a choice for hoomans are acid-shy.
Best for: sensitive skin, all skin!
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is a sugar-derived exfoliating acid, but it won’t satisfy your sweet tooth. It's one of the most common acids found in skincare. It’s an alpha-hydroxy acid which is suitable for almost every skin type, even sensitively skinned hoomans. It has anti-ageing benefits and is good for acne-prone skin, as it helps to loosen the bonds between skin cells.
The nerdie recommendation would be NeoStrata Foaming Glycolic Wash, although this would not be recommended for super-sensitive skinned hoomans.
Glycolic acid: spot-prone skin, all skin, mature skin!
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is milder exfoliating acid than even glycolic acid. It’s excellent when it comes to dull and uneven complexions. It’s good for improving the appearance of pore size, if this is something that you’re concerned about. Lactic acid is specifically used to treat hyperpigmentation, and age spots.
We’d definitely recommend Environ Derma-Lac Body Lotion, for use on any areas on the body that need exfoliation. This product is excellent for dry, rough skin on the body including feet, elbows and knees and can also be used to treat sun damage, congestion and pigmentation on the body and face.
Best for: full body exfoliation, skin which tends towards sensitivity
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is derived from almonds and is an alpha hydroxy acid which can help with spot-prone hoomans skin. It’s effective when it comes to anti-ageing, as mandelic acid helps to speed up cell turnover, and minimize the appearance of fine lines.
If you’re seeking a product with a host of exfoliating acids including mandelic acid, Environ Tri Bio-Botanical Revival Masque could be right for you. Environ call it their ‘face-lift in a jar’, and we will admit that it certainly can have an amazing impact on skin needing an immediate boost.
Best for: mature skin, spot-prone skin
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is one of the true nerdie loves. It’s derived from witch hazel, and is a beta hydroxy acid which is particularly suitable for hoomans who have spot or oil-prone skin. It works by penetrating deeply into pores in order to dissolve debris which might otherwise lodge in them and cause breakouts.
Our favourite for salicylic acid would have to be our own Skingredients Sally Cleanse. This cleanser is suitable for use up to three times a week in the evening, and is formulated with 2% salicylic acid, the highest percentage of salicylic acid available in a cosmetic product over the counter in the Europe.
Best for: oil and spot-prone skin
These exfoliating acids are some of our nerdie favourites but there are a host of exfoliating acids out there, and we don’t pretend to know which one would suit you without speaking to you. Choosing the right exfoliating acid can make a huge impact when it comes to your skincare routine, so if you don’t feel like yours is working for you, then do get in touch with your Nerd or Nerdette who will be more than happy to discuss options with you.
]]>Take our quiz below and tell us what you think!
A: Serious, serious results, pretty much pronto. I want my skin to appear more youthful and rejuvenated overnight. I’ve got high expectations!
B: Something simple, without too much fuss, to keep my skin under control.
C: I’m looking for a routine that helps to control my skin and I’m willing in invest in a routine that actively tackles my skincare concerns.
D: I’m looking for a super soothing and gentle routine.
E: I’m looking for an easy and effective skincare routine as I get to know my skin a little better.
A: More mature skin, which might be prone to dryness.
B: Skin which tends towards dryness or dehydration.
C: Very oily skin, with active breakouts.
D: Reactive, sensitive skin.
E: Breakout prone skin.
A: A few times a week if possible, even overnight!
B: Every now and then – occasional use!
C: Every week, or three days.
D: About three times a week or more occasionally during skin emergencies.
E: A few times a week, but not religiously!
A: Skin which appears seriously rejuvenated, firmer, and generally had a bit of pizazz.
B: I want skin to be visibly more hydrated.
C: I’d like a reduction in oil and breakouts over time.
D: I want skin to feel comfortable and soothed and look its best.
E: I want skin to feel fizzy with anticipation and also to see a reduction in blackheads.
A: Luxury all of the blimmin’ way.
B: Convenience – I'm under time pressure.
C: I can tend to luxury – but I need results.
D: I have a little time towards masks and self-care, but it’s about what works for me.
E: Convenience and cost!
Although we suggest speaking to your Nerd or Nerdette before making any changes to your skincare routine, here’s a handy rule of thumb – and some ideas for bringing forward to your Nerd or Nerdette during your next follow-up!
Mostly As: Environ Tri Bio-Botanical Revival Masque
You might enjoy trying out the Environ Tri Bio-Botanical Revival Masque. Environ calls this masque their 'Face Lift in a Jar', and although we don’t make any promises, we’ve found that plenty of our clients have found striking results after incorporating it into their routine. This masque is formulated with alpha hydroxy acids, and can help skin to feel hydrated and improve the apprearance of uneven skin tone.
It’s recommended for use several times a week, but you can work it up to use overnight in time!
Bs: Seoulista Super Hydration Instant Facial Sheet Mask
This super-hydrating sheet mask is perfect for busy hoomans seeking a shot of hydration. Seoulista Super Hydration Instant Facial is a hyaluronic acid infused sheet mask. It also contains antioxidant-rich coconut. It’s perfect for applying to skin post-cleanse when the mood strikes you.
The sheet itself is bio-cellulose, which is made through the hygienic fermentation of natural ingredients such as bamboo or coconut, making it highly absorbent, adhering well to the skin, and biodegradable.
Cs: Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Sebu-Clear Masque
The Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Hydroxy Acid Sebu-Clear Masque is a creamy, low pH creamy mask that assists in clearing the appearance of existing breakouts with a combination of exfoliating acids, leaving the skin looking visibly healthier and smoother. It’s perfect for hoomans who are very oily, very breakout-prone, and needing some skin-love.
It contains lactic acid to helps the skin's own exfoliation process by allowing dead skin cells to slough off easier, whilst assisting in hydration due to its humectant properties. It also contains salicylic acid which penetrates pores and hair follicles to dissolve debris within them, reducing blockages and acne flare-ups.
Use every 3 days or as advised by your Nerd or Nerdette!
Ds: REN Evercalm Ultra Comforting Rescue Mask
REN Evercalm Ultra Comforting Rescue Mask is a moisturising mask for sensitised skin, designed to instantly alleviate redness and irritation. This calming mask uses an innovative bio-actives complex to strengthen skin's barrier as it moisturises, de-stresses, and comforts the skin, boosting its overall health.
You can use this three times a week or when your skin needs a rescue!
Es: Dermalogica Clear Start Blackhead Clearing Fizz Mask
This is a fun mask with an unusual texture. Apply it to cleansed skin to feel the fizz. The technology activates upon application, helping to open pores, decongest skin and facilitate blackhead clearing. It contains sulfur to help keep skin clear, and kaolin clay for absorbing excess oil.
It’s best suited to teenage hoomans, pregnant hoomans in need of some blackhead busting, those with skin that is sensitive and congested, and those who want a bit of fun in their routine. It’s a great option for hoomans starting their skincare journey.
]]>As a Nerd Networker, you are probably aware of a concept we call “active cleansing”. Thankfully, this does not mean hopping on a treadmill and trying to cleanse at the same time, but that you have a cleanser that is results-driven and contains active ingredients that exfoliate and provide benefits to your skin.
Due to its activeness, we usually recommend that your active cleanser is used every 2 or 3 nights (or perhaps even nightly, if your Nerd or Nerdette deems it necessary or beneficial for your skin!).
In a truly nerdie, well-rounded, balanced skincare routine, you have both an active cleanser and a passive cleanser. Your passive cleanser serves to cleanse, nourish and balance your skin when you’re not using your active cleanser – the other nights and in the morning, and to remove any residue prior to using your active cleanser! It’s like a see-saw, a relationship... Like life itself! You can’t always take, take, take – you have to give back equally!
Your passive cleanser works mostly to cleanse the skin post pre-cleanse, and can have benefits such as balancing, hydrating and soothing the skin. Your active cleanser, on the other hand, is targeted towards your specific skin concerns and will work as your exfoliator sans grit – we don’t adore mechanical exfoliation, as it can irritate the skin, whereas chemical exfoliation with exfoliating cleansers tends to be more respectful to the skin when they are used as advised!
We also recommend using your passive cleanser to further prep your skin so that your active cleanser can work harder without debris or residue getting in its way – so, you will remove makeup and debris with the Cleanse Off Mitt, follow up with your passive cleanser and then finish your cleanse with your active cleanser.
For redness, dehydrated skin, dry skin, ageing skin and normal skin
IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Cleanser
- Creamy cleanser with high-potency vitamin C to tackle redness
- Contains vitamin E, potent antioxidant
- Fatty alcohols to help the skin to retain moisture
For all skins, including oily skin, congested skin, dry skin and sensitive skin
Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanse
- Lightweight creamy lotion with prebiotic-probiotic complex for balance
- With polyhydroxy acid for hydration
- Hydrating glycerin to moisturise skin
For combination, oily and congestion-prone skin
ASAP Skincare Gentle Cleansing Gel
- Lightweight soap-free gel wash with aloe vera to soothe
- With white tea extract for antioxidant protection
- Hydrating glycerin to moisturise skin Active cleansers we adore (for different skins)
For skin with pigmentation, dull skin, ageing skin, dry skin and normal skin
Neostrata Foaming Glycolic Wash
- Foam cleanser with 18% glycolic acid and 2% polyhydroxy acid for intense exfoliation
- Best for normal or dry skin, or oily skin with nothing beyond blackheads
- Not recommended for those experiencing regular inflamed congestion (as glycolic can draw oil up for some congested skins, in our experience) or sensitive skin
For excessively oil and congestion-prone skin
- Wash texture with 2% salicylic acid (highest amount permitted in retail products in the EU) for exfoliation and dissolving sebum and debris
- Best for very oily skin, skin with persistent blackheads, whiteheads, lumps and bumps (and for use on body too)
- Not recommended for those with sensitive skin
For oily skin, or those with ageing skin suffering from congestion
Murad AHA/BHA Exfoliating Cleanser
- Wash texture with a blend of salicylic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid
- Best for those with combination or oily skin
Does everyone need an active cleanser?
We do recommend active cleansing as the main form of exfoliation in most skincare routines, as it is easier to control the effects as you are removing the exfoliant from your skin rather than leaving it on.
However, for some very sensitive skins, it’s possible that you are best to use just a passive cleanser and exfoliate with something even milder such as enzymes, perhaps with the Declare Enzyme Peel which is suitable for even very sensitive skin.
Does “passive” mean a passive cleanser doesn’t contain active ingredients?
Not necessarily – we would consider ingredients like prebiotics, probiotics, vitamin C and vitamin A (among others) to be active. However, in this respect, we mean passive as it is more difficult to over-use them.
Over-use of an exfoliating cleanser can lead to over-exfoliation which can disrupt our skin’s protective barrier, so take care not to use your active cleanser more than advised!
As always, if you have any questions, pop us an email at consult@theskinnerd.com or book in for a follow-up consultation!
]]>Exfoliation is not a dirty word - in fact, we love exfoliation. What we don’t love is excessive exfoliation! We believe exfoliating correctly, with the right acids and at the right intervals is just good skin sense. As we age, our skin’s process of desquamation can slow down, meaning that our skin does not slough off old skin at the breakneck speed of our youth.
Many hoomans fear ‘chemical’ when thinking about skincare, but we are all chemical reactions in a chemical world. When it comes to exfoliating acids, you have a few choices!
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This is an alpha hydroxy acid. It has a very small molecular size which means that it can penetrate more deeply into the skin and prompts skin cells to turn over. It’s perfect for more mature skin, those looking to tackle pigment, and those who find their skin a little tougher and able to handle a harsher acid.
Not ideal for spot-prone hoomans!
Nerdie Pick: NeoStrata Foaming Glycolic Wash
Azelaic acid is one of those rare acids which seems to be suitable for almost all hoomans. Suitable for hoomans prone to rosacea as well as thoes prone to acne, it’s suitable for clearing the bumps, lesions, and swelling caused by rosacea and pimples and swelling caused by acne.
Nerdie Pick: REN Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic
Mandelic acid is derived from almonds and is an alpha hydroxy acid which can help with spot-prone hoomans skin! It’s an effective in increasing hydration and firmness, too!
Nerdie Pick: Environ Tri-BioBotanical Revival Masque
Lactic acid is a large-sized molecule meaning it cannot penetrate as deeply into the pore, so it’s more gentle, yet still effective and perfect if you have more reactive skin. It can help to hydrate your skin and it good for hyperpigmentation and fullness.
It’s best for sensitive skin, ageing skin, pigment, acne-prone skin – essentially most hoomans would benefit from this acid!
Nerdie Pick: Environ Clarity+ Sebu-Lac Lotion
A powerhouse beta hydroxy acid which cuts through oil to penetrate the pore and dissolve debris within, this acid (derived from willow-bark, like aspirin) is particularly suited to more oil prone hoomans.
Nerdie Pick: Skingredients Sally Cleanse
If you need a further explanation of exfoliation, we suggest a follow-up consultation with the Nerd or Nerdette team to make sure you’re using the products in a combination that works best for you!
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We often feel that your serums give you the nutrients and vitamins that your skin needs, and many hoomans do not need a night cream.
However, if you suffer from dry skin, or desire the comfort of a night cream as part of your PM routine, then we understand. Sometimes the allure of a night-cream can be the signal our brains need to go ‘ahh, it’s nighttime. Time to go to sleep!’
]]>We often feel that your serums give you the nutrients and vitamins that your skin needs, and many hoomans do not need a night cream.
However, if you suffer from dry skin, or desire the comfort of a night cream as part of your PM routine, then we understand. Sometimes the allure of a night-cream can be the signal our brains need to go ‘ahh, it’s nighttime. Time to go to sleep!’
It’s a similar story with eye-creams. Do we think that every hooman needs an eye-cream? No, not necessarily. If you’re bringing your eye-safe serums right up around your eyeballs, then we don’t think you necessarily need an extra step – if that extra step means you’re duplicating ingredient, anyway.
For night-time, there are plenty of products that we could recommend, so check out the nerdie guide below.
Our own little pot of joy, Skingredients Skin Good Fats, makes the list. Skin Good Fats is our super soothing, hard-working night-moisturiser. If you’re prone to super dry skin, then we suggest it’s perfect for use during the day under your SPF for an extra zip of comfort.
Skin Good Fats contains ceramide NP, a patented anti-itch ingredient which helps to protect and preserve your skin barrier. With your skin barrier in good nick, it will lose less water through transepidermal water loss, keeping skin plump and hydrated, not just at night!
Skin Good Fats also contains shea butter glycerides, which removes the comedogenic property from shea butter making it more suitable for a variety of skin types. This is super nourishing and genle on skin. It also contains drago-calm, an emollient which has antioxidant properties to help reduce the effect of irritants on the skin.
Smooth on one pump of product and night in circular motions from the centre of the face outwards!
For hydration, the Dermal Replenishment cream from NeoStrata is a true nerdie favourite (particularly of Nerd Ben – as many of you who had your consult with him can attest to!) It contains skin’s amino acid building blocks and natural sugars called Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) to attract water and help strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier. It uses peptides to help plump and firm the skin and diminish the appearance of uneven pigment and dark spots, and antioxidants to protect skin against the damage of environmental stressors.
Suitable for hoomans with dehydrated skin, and hoomans seeking to prevent premature ageing. Also suitable for protecting and nourishing mature skin, and tackling pigmentation and skin laxity.
Here’s a moisturiser with a difference. This pinkish gel-formulation is oil-free, and super hydrating. It’s suitable for all skin types, even the acne prone, and instantly refreshes and cools skin.
It contains a host of B vitamins - vitamins B3, B5, B6, B9, and E, all of which work together to help alleviate dryness, and to help reduce appearance of wrinkles and soothe skin.
It’s also packed with peptides – another of our favourite things.
Roll call: oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-2, Polypeptide-1, Polypeptide-9 and Polypeptide-11, all of which help restore damaged skin barrier.
This moisturiser contains Cumulative Hydration-Release Technology that instantly locks moisture. It's ideal for applying after serums to soothe skin for a good night’s sleep.
And overnight …
It’s not all about night creams. An overnight face mask (although not suitable for use every single day) can be a delicious treat for skin needing a bit of pampering.
One of our favourite overnight masks to take to the pillow is YonKa Hydra N˚ 1 Masque. It contains a host of skin-friendly ingredients, like vitamin A for regeneration, repairing and restorative ingredients like jojoba and sandalwood.
It’s perfect for times in your life when skin hydration might have been zapped away, such as after periods of travel, or environmental stress!
It provides time-released, deep hydration: +54% after 1 hour and +96% after 8 hours, and helps to calm skin which might be feeling irritated.
Another overnight favourite. The great thing about the IMAGE Vital C range is that it’s suitable for sufferers of rosacea, and pregnant hoomans too. It helps to energise, smooth and nourish skin overnight with a stable form of vitamin C, and sodium hyaluronate, a humectant to draw moisture to the surface of the skin.
Use a cherry-sized amount from the neck up 2 or 3 times a week!
So there you have it – a few nerdie night-time favourites! If you ever find that there’s too big a gap between night-cream and zzz, then we sympathise. Hush & Hush Mind Your Mind capsules are a melatonin sleep aid which send you to sleepy-town, and have been well-loved by several member of team nerd!
If you’d like more advice on the night-cream for you, then you can get in touch with your Nerd or Nerdette through consult@theskinnerd.com!
]]>If you believe you are suffering from acne, before you start any new regimen, remember that it’s important to be diagnosed by a real-life professional. It's important to see a medical advisor rather than self-prescribing. Google is a great resource for many things, but misdiagnosis through Google or Web MD is a common issue and can often cause more harm than good. Not all redness or bumps on the skin are necessarily acne. Not even all acne is the same!
So, exactly what causes acne? Importantly, I must stress that it’s NOT caused by dirt and lack of washing. True, a certain element of hygiene will always play a crucial part in any skin problem or condition, but it is certainly not the sole culprit. Acne is an unfortunately common condition that is caused by the over-production of oil. To be clear, oil is not an evil thing; we are supposed to have oil both inside and on the surface of the skin – it forms part of the natural protective layer and provides a healthy bounce and appearance to the skin.
Many acne sufferers unwittingly over-exfoliate their skin, trying to strip the excess oil away – this is the opposite of what you should do. Your skin should always be treated gently to avoid further irritation. If you strip too much oil away from the surface, the skin panics and that causes an overproduction of oil, which is the exact opposite of what you need. Your skin knows it’s supposed to have oil, and by removing it, you knock the system out of sync. So to protect itself, the skin produces more and more oil (and it’s the gloopy nasty sort), and so the problem continues in a harsh cycle.
If you suffer from acne, you may be thinking ‘why me?’ Well, there are four basic root causes of acne that you may be affected by:
Hormonal: generic skincare cannot help this. Supplements, medical testing and GP recommendations are needed.
Over-production of oil: Vitamin A can help to regulate and stabilise the amount of oil the body produces. Remember, the oil in your skin is designed to flow out onto the surface of the skin to protect and moisturise it.
Lack of exfoliation: The skin does not exfoliate naturally; this is due to a lack of water, excess UV exposure and/or a fish oil deficiency. The skin cannot shed its layers at the proper rate, which means the oil is trapped in the skin and cannot get out to the surface, where it belongs. We can help this by exfoliating the surface with AHA and BHA acids (glycolic, lactic, malic, salicylic acid), rather than using physical exfoliating products, such as facial scrubs.
Bacteria: the bacteria designed to sit on the surface of your skin can creep into the follicle (pore). If anything enters into the body that doesn’t belong, the body recognises it as an enemy and fights it, causing pus/infection. The solution is products that contain antibacterial ingredients.
In many cases, skincare alone can’t solve acne-prone skin, but what can skincare do? Topically, skincare can give you some of the “tools”, also known as ingredients, that your skin needs to keep itself healthy. What you need are:
Finally, my top tips to deal with acne:
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Feel like your questions aren’t answered? Get in contact with Team Nerd at +353 877070936, or email us at consult@theskinnerd.com!
1. Sensitive, dehydrated skin. What's the best cleanser, serum and moisturizer please?
When it comes to sensitive skin, we’re often talking about skin which tends towards reactiveness. This can often go hand in hand with dehydrated skin, as reactive skin in general may have difficulties with its barrier, which keeps irritants out and locks moisture in. Dry and dehydrated skin can often be mistaken for one another. It’s important to note that dehydrated skin is skin which needs more water, but dry skin is skin which needs more oil (sebum). Dehydration is a skin concern which anyone can face during their life, but dry skin is a skin type which you’re born with, or can come about as we age or due to hormonal fluctuations
When it comes to dehydrated skin, upping your intake of essential fatty acids is the best thing you can do for your skin – it's step 1. You can do this by increasing the amount of omega-rich fish in your diet (mackerel is a favourite), nuts and seeds, too! You can also supplement your routine with supplements like Solgar Omega 3-6-9 Supplements, which can help to boost your hydration levels.
For dehydrated skin, drinking plenty of water is also super important! A dehydrated body can result easily in dehydrated skin. You skin barrier is trying at all times to keep hydration inside the body, and irritants out. If you have dry skin, or a skin condition like acne or eczema, then it means that your skin barrier is already a little bit weakened. A strong skin barrier is important when it comes to keeping your skin hydrated.
Your skin might also have become dehydrated by sun exposure, drinking alcohol, hot showers or central heating. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant ingredient which can help to draw moisture to your skin, but be careful - it can also draw moisture from the lower levels of your skin so it’s important to keep your internal hydration levels up, too.
For sensitive, dehydrated skin, there are plenty of products which would be usable.
A gentle cleanser, like Skingredients PreProbiotic Cleanse, or Environ Youth EssentiA Low Foaming Cleansing, is ideal for skin which is in need of extra gentle treatment. PreProbiotic Cleanse is hydrating and suitable for use morning and evening, while Environ Youth EssentiA Low Foaming Cleansing also contains hydrolyzed oats to hydrate skin and diminish the appearance of fine lines.
For serums, something truly gentle such as Murad Sensitive Skin Soothing Serum could be a good choice. It contains hyaluronic acid to draw moisture back the skin, and to soothe tightness and irritation. It’s even suitable for use after cosmetic procedures, and if you were to fall prey to a sunburn.
If you wish to use a moisturiser to soothe your skin and lock in hydration, we have a few suggestions here, too. Skingredients Skin Good Fats is particularly formulated to be helpful when it comes to soothing dry, reactive skin in need of some TLC. It contains a patented anti-itch ingredient, as well as soothing shea-butter glycerides. It’s also packed with ceramides, to help keep your skin barrier in great shape.
There’s also the Neostrata Restore Bionic Face Cream with gluconolactone and lactobionic acid. It’s so gentle that it can even be used after cosmetic procedures, and is non-comedogenic, too.
Both of these moisturisers help towards healing your skin barrier and boosting its health, to avoid hydration leaking away.
2. Can you recommend a good eye cream around the 40-50 euro mark to increase hydration and reduce puffiness and fine lines around the eye area for somebody in their late 20s early 30s?
As a rule, we’re not evangelical about eye creams, and in a lot of cases, don’t find that we need to recommend them. Eye creams often contain the same ingredients as serums, so we like to start there. If you are looking to reduce puffiness and fine lines around the eyes, we have some suggestions.
For puffiness, it might be an idea to get your hands on a jade roller. We’re very attached to ours in Team Nerd, and you might have caught our recent Facebook Live where Jennifer took a few minutes to show her favourite jade rolling techniques. (Coincidentally, if you’d like to know more about jade rolling, let us know and we will put it on our list of things to bring to you soon!) Jade rolling can really help when it comes to lymphatic drainage - the process of diffusing the build-up of fluid around the eyes which can lead to puffiness. You can find the best way to use your jade roller as part of this Facebook Live!
We also believe that as long as they are safe for use around the eyes, you should bring your serums all the way up around your eyes as they are so packed with vitamins and important ingredients for your skin in concentrated doses that it is a shame to skip your eyes with them! It’s important to check the packaging to see if they are suitable for use around the eye area before you go ahead happily applying.
A vitamin A serum like Skin Protein is suitable for use around the eyeballs (but not in them) and contains a pro-collagen peptide as well as the vitamins within which can help to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Eye creams often contain the same vitamins, peptides and hydrators, so it's often a duplication of ingredients. It’s important to check the ingredients to make sure you’re getting true value from your chosen products.
If you’re already bringing your serums up around your eyes and feel you need an extra hand,, then we would recommend the IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Eye Recovery Gel, suitable for sensitive skin, or the Environ Youth EssentiA Vita-Peptide Eye Gel.
3. I have noticed with the sun I have gotten sun damage freckles on my nose especially and was wondering is there a way to help ease them?
Wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen is a good way to avoid getting sun-damage, because unfortunately freckles are a form of sun damage. We can call them by another name - solar lentigos.
Murad Rapid Age Spot Correcting Serum is helpful when it comes to helping dark spots, age spots and hyper-pigmentation to fade, by virtue of a hydroquinone alternative. It can work fast, too - you might be able to see results in as little as a week.
Solar lentigos need Vitamin A, too – we might recommend the Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser range, which is packed with more than just vitamin A – it's got antioxidants galore. It’s perfect for skin which might be dealing with oiliness or even dryness, as it’s suitable for all skin types.
Make sure you pat on our SPF all over the areas of your skin which are exposed to sunlight, including the areas which are freckled already.
If you find that your skin becomes easily light-damaged, make sure you wear a very high factor, the correct amount of it, top it up every 2 hours or after being in water, stay in the shade wherever possible and cover up with a big hat.
4. What's the best way to clean the Environ Cosmetic Roll-CIT?
You can watch a Facebook Live on this roller here, featuring the lovely Ben! To clean this product, rinse it under hot water for one minute before and after using. Once a week, fill the Environ Cosmetic Roll-CIT container with a sanitising solution (like denatured alcohol, or Environ’s own Environ Roll-Cit Cleaning Solution). Submerge the roller in this solution for ten minutes, remove, leave to dry and discard the fluid! It should always be dry before using again.
5. When can you progress from Environ AVST 1?
You can progress to Environ AVST when you have used a bottle of AVST 1 in 8 weeks, and if your skin is happy with it! It’s Environ’s recommendation, which we follow!
6. A lot of active products seem to flare up my rosacea, or make me break out in spots, even those with PHAs that seem to be suitable for sensitive skin. Should I just stick to the basics that I know work and not try anything new?
Finding the correct products for rosacea-prone skin can be trial and error sometimes. The IMAGE Skincare Vital C range was created with rosacea in mind by the founder Janna Ronnert who suffered from rosacea herself. This range might suit your rosacea-needs, but we would suggest that you send your Nerd or Nerdette a message, as they would be more than happy to talk you through your rosacea queries and help to find the products which suits your skin.
We hope we’ve answered your nerdie qs - don’t forget, you can always contact your Nerd or Nerdette for individual advice, and we’d really urge you to do so! Our nerdie ears are open and waiting.
You can get in touch with us at consult@theskinnerd.com!
]]>Vitamin C is probably one of the best known vitamins, as it’s so important for overall bodily health, so it’s definitely made it to the vitamin mainstream.
Vitamin C is also known as ascorbic acid, but there are many different forms, such as ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and many more besides!
]]>Vitamin C is probably one of the best known vitamins, as it’s so important for overall bodily health, so it’s definitely made it to the vitamin mainstream.
Vitamin C is also known as ascorbic acid, but there are many different forms, such as ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and many more besides!
Vit C in all of its forms is essential for protecting cells and keeping them healthy, as well as looking after your connective tissues. We don’t store it in our bodies which is why we need to take it in through our diet - and for the good of our skin, to apply it topically, too.
When it comes to skincare, vitamin C is a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants have got our backs - we’re basically always in the midst of a chemical reaction. As our bodies turn food into energy, free radicals are released. Free radicals are unpaired ‘bachelor cells’ as we of Team Nerd like to call them.
Left to their own devices, free radicals go on a spree through your body, and can cause damage to your cells. We take in antioxidants through food (or we can also apply them topically to our skin through products).
Antioxidants pair with these free radicals and neutralise them, so they can’t get up to any more mischief.
Vitamin C is a superstar of the skincare world as it can show a marked impact on skin concerns such as redness, inflammation, skin tone, dullness, texture - even pigmentation as a result of acne or sun damage! Vitamin C could have you c-ing yourself in a whole new light!
Vitamin C is necessary for the production of collagen, so it’s important to apply it topically to your skin. It can be really helpful if you’re attempting to tackle premature ageing in the skin as well as give your skin an antioxidant boost.
REN V-Cense Revitalising Night Cream is a moisturising night cream which contains vitamin C as well as boswellic acid to lift and tighten the skin, and pro-vitamin A, another potent antioxidant.
These night cream is particularly effective for skin which might have begun to display signs of ageing in fine lines or wrinkles. It’s best applied as the final step in your night-time routine for overnight hydration. It can help to give skin rejuvenated appearance, as well as prompting collagen and elastic production. Apply some (vitamin) C’s before you get your Z’s.
Vitamin C is one of the most important ingredients that you can include in your skincare routine. It can help to ease the symptoms of a number of inflammatory skin conditions, which can lead to redness if left unchecked. Vitamin C is also well tolerated by all hoomans and all skin types, and is even suitable for sufferers of rosacea. In fact, it’s very beneficial for hoomans with rosacea!
Vitamin C can be super helpful for helping rosacea sufferers out. Vitamin C can help to support weakened blood vessels. In hoomans with rosacea, their blood vessels can dilate too easily, which leads to the redness in the face which marks rosacea. Vitamin C can help counteract this inflammation.
When it comes to vitamin C and rosacea, we get a lot of questions about IMAGE Vital C. This range is formulated on the backbone of vitamin C. Vital C was created by the founder of IMAGE, Janna Ronert, in order to help to tackle her own rosacea. We had the opportunity to chat to Janna during one of our recent At Home Skin School Lives - you can view it here!
It was the first line created by IMAGE Skincare, but thankfully, they branched out in the years following to create a whole range of skincare products for different skincare concerns!
The Vital C range promises to deliver vitamin C into the cellular level of skin, and by doing so to help heal skin and reduce inflammation. It also hydrates and exfoliates skin which might be marked by bumps. Depending on the product, it can help to protect skin from environmental and UV damage, too.
Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, which is one of the main forms of vitamin C in skincare,can have a hydrating effect on the skin. It can help to prevent transepidermal water loss, which means that more hydration remains in your skin, instead of being let out by a wonky skin barrier.
Our Vital C picks would have to be:
IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Enzyme Masque
This masque brings in hydration and exfoliation to treat skin, and, like the rest of the Vital C range, is suitable for use by hoomans with rosacea.
This masque uses gentle exfoliation to free your skin of dead skin cells. Enzymatic exfoliation is one of the gentlest forms of exfoliation, as enzymes gobble up the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin - handy! This masque also contains vitamins A, C, and E to promote skin health and for antioxidant power. It also contains hyaluronic acid to plump and hydrate skin.
IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Antioxidant A C E Serum
Perfect for application twice daily after cleansing, morning and evening. This serum contains a pack of antioxidants, and peptides, too. It can help to protect your skin against the visible signs of ageing such as fine lines, dryness and collagen loss. It’s also effective at tackling redness, which is good news for anyone who’s looking to bring down the heat in their cheeks.
It contains severals forms of vitamin C, including tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate. These help to even skin tone, and reduce the appearance of hyper-pigmentation and dullness. Especially suitable for skin which is dry, red, or environmentally damaged.
It comes in a brown bottle, to help protect the serum against the effects of light, which can have a negative effect on the efficacy of the serum. Close it tightly after use, and keep it out of direct sunlight.
Vitamin C-rich products can make an impact on pigmentation. This is a process by which areas of the skin might have become discoloured, often to brown, in patches on the skin. This is usually a result of sun exposure.
Nerdie bit: Vitamin C inhibits tyrosinase and reduces melanin, which means it can interrupt the formation of new pigmentation and help to reduce the appearance of pre-existing pigmentation.
In the case of acne sufferers, after acne breakouts, you might have what is called post-inflammatory hyper-pigmentation. These can occur in the form of dark reddish marks on the previously acned zones.
They can also be the result of popping spots or picking at them. Vitamin C can be helpful when it comes to reducing the vividness of this pigmentation, and helping scars or marks to fade.
Murad Rapid Age Spot Correcting Serum
This serum helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots, age spots and hyper-pigmentation with a hydroquinone alternative. You could begin to see the results in as little as a week. Vitamin C, oligopeptides and light-reflecting pearls help to brighten skin tone instantly, and also over a longer period of time.
If you’d like to include more vitamin C in your routine, but these options don’t suit you at the moment, then you can also take in vitamin C for your skin through supplements. The Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Vit C supplements can contribute to collagen formation, support the normal function of your skin, and give you an antioxidant boost, too.
Vitamin C is one of the most important ingredients that you can include in your skincare, and depending on your skin concern, it can be a truly useful and effective ingredient for tackling a wide range of concerns, for a variety of different hoomans.
If you have any questions about whether or not vitamin C would be of benefit to you and your skincare routine, you can get in touch with your Nerd or Nerdette at consult@theskinnerd.com!
]]>The skin around your eyes is very thin, and this can contribute to your eye area showing signs of age before the rest of your skin. It can mean that your eye area might show more evidence of lines, wrinkles, or puffiness.
As we age, we naturally produce less collagen, which gives skin its plump and snap. As collagen degrades, it means that skin can become more puffy, or can make dark circles appear more noticeable, as the skin is not as plump and is thinner.
The area around the eyes is also hard-working. Think about how often you blink during the day, how expressive eyes can be (they’re called laughter lines for a reason), how much focus we put on our eyes when it comes to contact lenses and makeup.
There are a few things that you can do for your skin to help to treat any concerns you might have, and also to protect your eye area from premature ageing in the future! Eye, eye, captain.
SPF
The best way to do some preventative eye care is to make sure that you’re applying a broad-spectrum SPF every day - one that’s eye-safe! It’s important to note that not every SPF was created equal.
UV rays have a marked effect on skin, and are the greatest cause of premature ageing. This is something that we are always seeking to delay, but when it comes to areas like those around your eyes, it’s even more important. Since the skin around our eyes is already predisposed to ageing more rapidly than other areas of our skin, keeping it protected from sun damage (and, while we’re at it, HEV and infrared light too, like that which we’re subjected to by our screens!) needs to be a priority.
Eye-safe mineral SPFs are ideal, as zinc oxide and titanium oxide don't tend to irritate the eyes as chemical UV filters can.
Skingredients Skin Shield SPF 50 PA+++
This lightweight mineral SPF is a physical barrier between you and UVA, UVB, HEV and infrared rays (including the blue light emitted by your screens).
It is safe for use around the eyes, too. It’s got a light peachy tint to avoid post-SPF pallor, and prevents photo flashback too. It’s suitable for all skin types.
Neostrata Sheer Physical Protection SPF50
This, ultra-sheer, mattifying SPF provides physical broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection with a sheer tint that blends with skin’s natural tone. It’s suitable for all skin, but especially those prone to redness, sensitivity and congestion.
When it comes to eye creams, the nerdie notion is that eyes need a bit of love. Definitely. Do they always need a specialist eye cream? We’re not so sure. There are certain ingredients which we would focus on when it comes to dabbing onto the eye area. These include:
Some say that the eye area needs fewer actives due to the thinness of the skin… Do go slow when applying eye-safe serums around the periorbital area and on the brow bone, and make sure your skin can handle it.
If you are finding these ingredients in serums (which are safe for use around the eye area, of course), then we’re not sure you need a second, specialist cream just for your eyes.
From the age of 25, collagen production slows down, and so this is the point at which you need to pay a bit more attention to what ingredients you’re applying to your eye area.
If you find your eye concerns are quite severe, and serums and SPFs aren’t having the effect you want, then an eye cream might be the move.
We do have some nerdie favourites when it comes to eye creams …
Environ Youth EssentiA Vita-Peptide Eye Gel
This has a very light gel formula which contains an array of essential vitamins, antioxidants and peptides which help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines around the eye area. Perfect for application overnight - a grain of rice sized amount spread between both eyes is ample, patted in with your ring finger!
This eye gel is cooling and brightening, and helpful in reducing under-eye puffiness and dark circles, with arnica, cucumber and aloe-vera.
Apply a single pump to clean fingertips and dot under eye from outer to inner corner, then gently smooth using small circular movements. You can use it day and night.
Facial massage
If puffiness in the eye area is getting your goat, then it might be time to consider facial massage! If you prefer a tool to help you out, you can use jade roller jade roller to help drain excess fluid from your face. This can pool around your eye area, particularly after a night of sleep, and rolling can help drain it away and boost circulation, too. You can also pop your jade roller in the fridge if you’re feeling particularly puffy.
If you prefer the old fashioned way, you can use clean hands to smooth the tension away, too, using massage techniques. You have to go super-easy on your eyes though, because remember how delicate they are? Use your ring finger, as it’s your weakest!
Nichola Joss is a leading facialist and creator of the Inner Massage - you can find her on Instagram here and follow along for facial massage tips! We were lucky enough to host her this week and gen up on our nerdie facial massage knowledge!
Caring for your eyes on the whole can also mean eating a healthy diet and keeping your hydration levels high. Essential fatty acids are key when it comes to keeping your skin barrier strong. If your skin barrier is strong, then it means that your skin is less likely to lose hydration. When it comes to keeping the area around your eyes in good condition, then hydration is a top priority. And don’t forget the sunglasses and hats if you’re spending time in the sun!
]]>It’s perfectly acceptable to enjoy a bit of chocolate at this seasonal time of year, but if you are fearing a breakout following a bit of Easter indulgence, then you’re not alone. Many hoomans believe that diet and skincare are inextricably linked.
We all know how putting good food, rich in omegas, and vitamins into our bodies can improve our skin health. It stands to reason that doing the opposite can have a negative impact on your skin, too.
However, chocolate really takes the blame far and above any other foodstuff. Why is this?
Is chocolate actually bad for our skin, or is it our own fear that makes us think that it is?
It’s something that our mothers told us, and their mothers told them - a bit of knowledge passed along the nerdie grapevine. In fact, you may be an unfortunate hooman who has had to suffer judging looks as you tuck into a Toblerone from someone who truly believes that the root of all skin issues is in that humble bar. We don’t fully agree. Moderation is the nerdie way.
Anecdotal links have existed for decades between chocolate and blemishes and acne, but the truth is a bit murkier, and more shades of grey than black and white.
Here’s some good news: chocolate might not be dramatically more likely to cause you to break out than any other sweet treat. The issue comes in when you think about the glycemic index of chocolate - and other foods, for that matter.
The glycaemic index (GI) is a way of classifying foods with regard to how fast they raise the glucose level of the blood. Sugary foods (like sweets and chocolate, unfortunately) raise the glucose levels of your blood more quickly than other foods, and this can cause your insulin levels to spike. Spiking insulin levels can result in inflammation, which in turn can lead to breakouts and can negatively impact your skin, which is why the chocolate hangover on Easter Monday might have you clutching your pearls in horror.
Does Dairy Affect Spots and Acne?
We cannot be entirely sure if dairy has an impact on your skin, but many clients of the Nerd Network have elected to reduce dairy when traditional means of treating their skin have failed to work.
It doesn’t work for everyone, but it could be something to consider if you’re truly at your wit’s end - just be sure to get all of the nutrients that you require from different sources if you try this, and be sure to check in with your GP or dietician. But long-term dairy intake is a little different than the session we might all enjoy on Easter Sunday...
Chocolate and Spots
We were lucky enough to chat to Orla Walsh, Registered Dietitian of Dublin Nutrition Centre recently about all things diet. And chocolate did indeed come up.
“Often chocolate is linked to acne and there’s only a few studies that have examined this. The most thorough study on this topic to date was one where they got participants to eat a whopping 1,200 calories worth of chocolate every day, and interestingly enough it was found that there was no significant increase in the oil production in the skin despite having this enormous amount of chocolate!”
Now, we would advise that you don’t take that as nerdie permission to fall upon enormous amounts of chocolate, but it’s certainly a bit cheering.
Skin-Friendly Chocolate
Did you know that chocolate can be a skin-pal? That might be the best sentence you’ve ever read.
Dark chocolate is packed with antioxidants, and if you haven’t heard the good news, then let us tell you - antioxidants are good news. They fight the free radicals in your body which might be introduced by chemical reactions, UV exposure, or pollution. We can’t really get enough of them. Moderation is key, but if you’ve got a slightly richer taste in chocolate, then you can feel very smug altogether as you take a bite on Easter Sunday.
So, chocolate is not the villain of the piece - but rather the supporting character who comes in once and season and is well-loved, and missed when they head out of frame. We always look forward to seeing them for their rare, but highly anticipated appearance in season 2.
There’s no evidence that it is chocolate, the cocoa within or the dairy within, that causes acne - it’s sugar that may be the culprit, and a square or two of dark chocolate will introduce antioxidants however you can also get them from green or rooibos tea, tomatoes, spinach … but treats are a necessary part of life, and if you can’t indulge in a bit of chocolate at Easter - when can you?
If you’re looking for antioxidants fit for your skin, then we have a few Nerdie favourites of our own…
Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Antioxidants
These antioxidant supplements are great for helping your skin to glow from the inside out, and are particularly loved by the nerdie team. They help to bond with free radicals and neutralise them, which helps to stop them from causing havoc throughout our bodies and manifesting this chaos on our skin!
Skin Veg is our anti-ageing, highlighting, hydrating serum. It contains sodium hyaluronate, the salt form of hyaluronic acid, and plenty of botanical extracts which provide antioxidant support, like tomato and broccoli extract!
Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 1
This step-up programme of seurms introuduces increasing amounts of vitamin A and other potent antioxidants like C and E to the skin in bite-sized increments. It's a great way to increase the amount of antioxidants you're applying topically. Be sure to speak to your Nerd or Nerdette if you'd like to start your AVST journey.
Have a safe and lovely Easter Weekend from Team Nerd!
]]>"Slugging", aka smothering your skin in Vaseline to trap all of your products onto the skin at night, is a bit of both.
Why is anyone doing this, you may ask? These DIY skincare gurus are using a thick layer of petroleum jelly as an occlusive and keeping it on all night long. An occlusive in skincare is something that forms a film across the skin for the purpose of protecting it and locking in moisture or hydration.
Occlusives aren't a new concept... Realistically, if you are dry-skinned, dehydrated or mature, you already have an occlusive at the end of your routine. Petroleum jelly is an occlusive actually found in a lot of skincare but other common occlusive agents are lanolin (sheep wool wax), zinc oxide (a mineral used as a physical filter in sunscreen and found in mineral makeup) and mineral oil (which is okay in skincare when it is pharmaceutical grade, like in Environ).
Due to the "trapping" nature of occlusives, they are often thought to be comedogenic but not everyone will find that all occlusive agents clog their pores... I find myself that silicone and silicone derivatives actually don't cause congestion for me and they are some of the ingredients that many find to be the MOST comedogenic.
"Sluggers" often apply their occlusive, (primarily Vaseline) soon after cleansing and after they've applied their serums and moisturiser. The idea is that the Vaseline will form a protective "casing" on the skin to keep their products on their face (and not on just their pillow) and will trap all pre-existing moisture on the skin. If your skin's acid mantle (protective barrier) is healthy and functioning properly, it will work like a Tupperware lid to keep the skin's own moisture in the skin.
This is one of its natural purposes. My qualm would be that a thick occlusive barrier like Vaseline, which has no alternative benefits to the skin in that it doesn't provide hydration or pull it up from the lower layers as a humectant would, will also prevent the skin from excreting sebum and lock sebum onto the skin. Our sebum does a phenomenal job at moisturising our skin naturally - clink your drinks for sebum - but all of the oily and spot-prone like moiself know that leaving an excess of sebum on the skin for a large period of time may lead to dozens of pustules.
This is my own thought - it is possible that slugging may protect the skin from dust particles which would be particularly important to those with reactive skin or congested skin, as dust particles can sit on the skin and irritate it. Dust is eeeeveerryywhere, even if you are as meticulous with your cleaning schedule as I am - I cannot COPE with dust, it must be eradicated at all costs.
I'm not sure how good Vaseline would be at protecting the skin from dust but arguably, any thick cream that doesn't quite "set". Not in that way that a night masque like IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Overnight Masque would do the same job without the possibility of clogged pores.
This is a common reason that many partake in the slug life. The theory is that the weight (?) of the Vaseline pushes the products further into the pore... or prevents them from coming off before they fully penetrate. A good product should penetrate the skin easily, within one or two minutes, meaning that it will have penetrated enough to not come off before you've even climbed under the covers.
I find this a little bit counter-intuitive. Essentially, when it comes to product penetration, you want to make the skin more receptive to the product, not trap the product on and pray that it penetrates. It makes much more sense to aid the product in getting into the skin by using a penetrant enhancer PRIOR to applying one's serums but more on that later. The nerdie verdict on slugging with Vaseline is that it may pose more issues than it does benefits and there simply HAS to be a better way of doing it.
Now, it isn't the act of popping an occlusive onto the skin that poses an issue... Sure, don't we all use sheet masks and barrier creams for that particular reason?! It is the petroleum jelly that irks me as it doesn't provide any benefits to the skin itself (ie. it isn't emollient, doesn't contain any skingredients like vitamins). Here are some alternatives to those who want to get slugging without skin bugging...
The aforementioned IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Overnight Masque much beloved by Team Nerd. It actually has a very light texture for an overnight masque and contains vitamin C, vitamin E and hyaluronic acid. Now, it is not truly occlusive in nature but it does indeed provide an extra layer of hydration and will keep your other products locked in underneath. I wouldn't recommend using it every night so maybe it isn't the ideal petroleum jelly slugging substitute but it definitely brings up hydration levels with each use.
You could also try Skingredients Skin Good Fats as a night cream to be applied post-serum, pre-pillow. It has a rich texture and plenty of ceramides to help repair your skin barrier and shea-butter glycerides to soothe those skin-cells, too.
If dust and bacteria is what scares you, invest in a big stack of pillowcases from a big Swedish budget retailer or the big Irish budget retailer and then change them daily. Keep them in your drawer and change them right before you sleep to limit the amount of dust that can get on them.
As you can probably tell, I don't think so. Rubbing yourself in a thick layer of petroleum jelly doesn't hydrate the skin, it mostly gives the illusion of true hydration due to the softness of the upper layers after you "slug". If you're using good skincare products, they should penetrate into your skin quickly, so I don't see why you'd really NEED a barrier over your products.
If you want to enhance the penetration of your other skincare, you should be going to the source and not "weighing down" from the top - your pores ain't doors but they should certainly accept skingredients without them being weighted. Skip the slugging if you were thinking of it...
Just imagine your sticky Vaseliney pillow and visage in the morning - it's a no from me. Work on your skin being generally healthier so it's ALWAYS hydrated and is in a better position to have things penetrate into it.
]]>Not all at-home beauty treatments are food-based. I cannot believe my eyes when I see some of the things that people are putting on their faces. At least when it comes to food facials and sugar scrubs, they have the excuse of saying "I only use natural skincare, what's natural can't harm the skin" - this is not true, and I personally am not anti-chemical (for example, water is a chemical).
It's incredible that people use unguents and potions that were not designed for skin and were probably not tested on skin, and expect them to work on the skin without it any damage. I'd like to reiterate that skincare is dermatologically tested and meticulously developed for a reason, as the skin is a delicate and highly reactive organ.
The chemicals found in cosmetic, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical products are added in finely-honed amounts so that they are safe for skin and can make a difference!!
The reason that toothpaste is known as an "acne cure" is because it used to contain a chemical called triclosan, which killed p. acnes (AKA the acne bacteria) and brought down inflammation. However, most toothpaste no longer contains triclosan because it was found to possibly be harmful to humans.
When tested on animals, it caused fluctuations of their hormone levels, affecting their metabolism. The results were not conclusive in humans but it still meant that triclosan was removed from many major toothpaste formulations. Some toothpastes also contains alcohol, sodium bicarbonate and hydrogen peroxide AKA hyper-drying ingredients that will reduce spot size.
Skip the toothpaste as a spot treatment. Yes, when treating a breakout, you are looking to dry out the spots. However, when there are drying chemicals in spot treatments (salicylic acid, lactic acid, benzoyl peroxide and the gang), they are usually suggested alongside a product that will rehydrate the skin, like an intensive serum, and the ingredients are measured to a skin-safe level. Toothpaste will leave your spots flatter but cornflakey and may actually make them redder because of its irritating ingredients.
If you're trying to find a more suitable spot-busting treatment, I might recommend Skingredients Sally Cleanse, with 2% salicylic acid - the highest percentage available in Europe. You can apply it directly to a spot and leave it for three minutes to 'zap' that spot, before cleansing it away!
You could also try out the Environ Focus Care Clarity+ Sebu-Clear Masque, if your Nerd or Nerdette suggest it might be a good choice for you! This mask contains a trio of spot-busting ingredients, including lactic acid, for hydrating exfoliation, salicylic acid for deep pore penetration, and tea tree oil, which is anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory, and helps with healing, too.
It is widely accepted that a hydration product that doesn't penetrate into the skin fully is essentially pointless when it comes to making a long-term difference in the skin. Sorry, not sorry.
Mineral oil on its own can be particularly bad for oily skin as it will just sit on the skin heavily, trapping the oil onto the skin. Oil + oil is not always bad, in fact, ensuring that the skin is properly hydrated and not dry is a great way of controlling oil production, as when skin is dehydrated or dry, your skin adapts by producing more sebum. But as we know, mineral oil does not actually hydrate the skin.
Do mineral oil's negatives outweigh its positives? I don't think so... but there are plenty of relatively affordable, skin-healthy oils that you can use instead, like hydrating jojoba oil, calming sweet almond oil or, Instagram's favourite, coconut oil. I don't recommend using these oils directly on your face, as they may be too heavy for your skin type and a serum will be much more effective!! However, not all mineral-oil-based products are created equal! Some of my favourite Environ products include mineral oil, but due to the quality of the brand, never cause congestion.
If you're looking for a skin-friendly moisturiser, I'd suggest NeoStrata Bionic Lotion, a big nerdie favourite around here. It contains 12% gluconolactone to gently exfoliate and 3% lactobionic acid to give back to the skin. It's suitable for even super sensitive skin, including eczema and psoriasis!
]]>Everyone knows that cleansing is step no. 1 in any skincare regime. You should always do this AM, PM, pre-gym, post-gym... etc etc. It's the step that most people remember not to skip, but is that always enough? I often wonder how people justify spending so much money on products such as Crème De La Mer, only to place them on top of old makeup and trapped oil and debris and pollution... Yet then expect results!
Would you wax a dirty car?! (well, who waxes their car these days but you get the point!) On that note, I often wonder why people spend so much on a dress they only wear once, yet are unwilling to spend on their face. You wear your face for a lifetime!
I am often asked about what is the best cleanser – micellar waters, oils, Cleanse Off Mitts… Effectively the question I should be asked is: do I promote double cleansing? The answer is a resounding YES.
I actually believe that not to double cleanse is a skin sin! - but with some caveats... For instance, I’m conscious of the alcohol content in micellar waters that could result in full removal of skin’s essential oils.
Not all cleansing is "good" cleansing. Scrubbing your face with a body sponge, while effective, would not be considered a good cleansing technique. To clarify, double cleansing should mean that the first cleanse will, with ease, remove the majority of your makeup and then second cleanse will be done with a prescribed cleanser to thoroughly remove any remains.
Sometimes the best cleanser for your skin isn't the best one at removing makeup!
I also don’t want to confuse double cleansing with over-cleansing. The dreaded over-cleansing, or over-exfoliation, is another sin and involves an obsession with scrubbing, acids, grits, and grains to feel squeaky clean! What you're actually doing, is irritating your skin.
If you're depending on just one cleanse, you might only be moving your mascara and foundation around your face and leaving traces that aren't immediately visible. So, the second cleanse is vital if you want to thoroughly look after your skin. All of that said, if you're traveling, a wipe user, gym goer, on the go, lazy (sorry, not sorry!), or just having a "cheat skin night", then using a one step cleanser such as Cleanse Off Mitt is accepted every now and again.
But only on occasions! Remember that cleansing is the basic step to allow the products penetrate into the lower skin. It's a clearly fundamental step in each and every person's skincare regimen (or it should be), so you may as well put as much effort into it as any other step!
]]>Take a note of your answers, and find out how you did at the end!
Q1: Salicylic acid is
A) An exfoliating acid
B) A hydrating acid
C) Actually not an acid at all
D) Only suitable for teenage skin
Q2: Skingredients Skin Protein has a slightly yellow tint. This is due to the presence of the ingredient:
A) Lemongrass
B) Dairy
C) Egg yolk
D) Green tea
Q3: What ingredient is commonly used for treating hyperpigmentation?
A) Vitamin C
B) Avocado oil
C) Glycolic acid
D) Plain water
Q4: Extracts from tomato in skincare can have which property:
A) Prompt collagen synthesis
B) Nothing useful
C) UV Protection!
D) Antioxidant
Q5: You can use aloe vera in skincare. True or false?
A) True
B) False
Q6: Glycerin is a ___ often used in ____
A) Moisturiser, cleansers
B) Humectant, moisturisers
C) Baking ingredients, cakes
D) Cleaning agent, makeup
Q7: Pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is unstable. You should use it within:
A) 7 days of opening
B) 12 weeks of opening
C) 6 months of opening
D) 3 months of opening
Q8: Ingredients appear on official INCI ingredients lists…
A) In order of importance
B) In order of amount
C) In alphabetical order
D) At the makers discretion
Q9: Zinc oxide is...
A) Only suitable for use in winter
B) A natural sunscreen
C) Unsuitable for dry skin
D) Not skincare
Q10: True or false: It is not possible to find vegan hyaluronic acid.
A) TRUE
B) FALSE
How did you do? Be sure to brag in the comments section ...
ANSWERS:
Q1: A! Salicylic acid is an exfoliating acid! It's particularly useful for oily or spot-prone hoomans. It's why we love Sally Cleanse so much - a holy grail product for some of us oilier members of Team Nerd...
Q2: D! Skingredients Skin Protein gets its colour from the presence of green tea. Fun fact, our second batch of Skin Protein was a slightly different colour due to a different batch of green tea being used in production! It's a potent antioxidant, so we'll allow it.
Q3: A! Vitamin C helps to treat hyperpigmentation. It's very effective for dry skin, too!
Q4: D! Extracts from tomatoes can work as powerful antioxidants, helping to fight the free radicals bent on causing a little bit of chaos.
Q5: A! Yes, you can use aloe vera in skincare. It's very soothing and calming - like a little skin holiday.
Q6: B! Glycerin is a humectant often used in moisturisers! It's an ingredient to look out for, particularly when thinking about our hands which might be sore at the moment.
Q7: B! Pure vitamin C should be used within 12 weeks of opening. Be sure to close your bottle tightly when you've finished using them in order to keep oxygen out of the formulation, as this can shorten effectiveness.
Q8: B! Ingredients appear in order of amount, so you'll know what ingredients are the strongest in that particular formulation.
Q9: B! Zinc oxide is a natural sunscreen! It's a common ingredient in mineral SPFs/
Q10: B! False. You can definitely find vegan hyaluronic acid! It's in Skingredients Skin Veg, and IMAGE Ormedic Balancing Antioxidant Serum, to name a few...
How did you do? Let us know in the comments!
]]>I cannot get enough of the myth-busting, which is why I always come back to it. As skincare grows and becomes a much bigger, much more complex industry, it gathers more mythology around it. It’s a sign of the times but I don’t like people being misled. Although skincare usually revolves around science, there are still parts of it that rely on opinion. For example, as we’ll discuss, some believe in not cleansing at all, whereas others believe in triple cleansing.
Scrolling through Instagram, I saw someone talking about their skincare fridge. Cue a minor gasp - is this real life? Are people getting special fridges for just their skincare? Now, there are certain things that I will pop in the fridge prior to using them - specifically eye creams and my jade roller - but it is not a skincare-only fridge, it is the same fridge that houses my turkey bacon and fruit (and definitely not anything bold)?
Upon research, I discovered a whole portion of the internet are using skincare fridges in the hopes of keeping their skincare fresher. This would make sense if we were making and using fresh skincare, in a sense. But we ain’t, and for good reason. The active ingredients in your results-driven products can be quite temperamental, for example, vitamin C (in the form of l-ascorbic acid) is notorious for being rendered useless by oxygen and light. To keep these ingredients active and to stop products from splitting, separating and going rancid, skincare and beauty formulators add preservatives and use specific types of packaging, such as airless pumps, like that in Skingredients Skin Protein!
A side note: preservatives will not hurt you. For a product to be sold in Ireland or America, for example, they must pass EC (European Commission) and FDA (Food and Drug Administration) standards for health respectively. The EU bans skincare ingredients all the time, and there are over 1,300 ingredients banned at present!
Soooo, no, a skincare fridge probably will not actually keep your skincare more effective for longer. Store it in a cool, dry, dark space and replace it regularly… That’s the tried and tested technique!
At The Skin Nerd, we work with much more affordable brands as well as brands that wouldn’t be considered affordable by many. Our belief is that it’s the ingredients and the quality of ingredients inside the product that matters, not the price tag attached to them. Sometimes, it’s difficult to find particular ingredients in more affordable formulations - vitamin A, vitamin C and peptides spring to mind.
Often, if we recommend an expensive product, it is because it will act as two cheaper products may. An active, acid-based cleanser, such as the Neostrata Glycolic Foaming Wash, is your cleanser and toner in one, and a serum that combines vitamin A, vitamin C and peptides is your antioxidant serum and your anti-ageing serum. Because of this, when people want cheaper dupes, it’s actually quite difficult to find them. It isn’t just what the ingredients are that matters. When it comes to acids specifically, the pH of the product matters greatly. If the PH of your salicylic acid product is too low (below 3), it is more likely to cause irritation in the skin, and acids need to be in specific percentages and formulations to even exfoliate the skin.
In my opinion, there is no need to fork out a lot on your pre-cleansing product, as you will be following it up with a cleanser. However, your serum will be remaining on your skin for at least 8 hours and is designed to *do* something for your skin, so that’s where you should probably be extending your budget. There are plenty of luxury brands that just contain the same plant extracts as brands that are retailing identical products that are a quarter of the price. It’s about getting your magnifying glass out and reading that INCI list, the list of ingredients that must legally be on the product packaging in order.
The double cleanse, meaning using a step to remove your makeup and a second step to cleanse, nourish and treat the skin, is a mainstay in Nerd culture. The reason we advocate for this slightly more in-depth mode of cleansing is because a) you need to remove your makeup thoroughly anyway and b) your cleanser simply won’t work as well if you haven’t removed your makeup thoroughly. Before I tell you that you don’t need to triple cleanse, I’m going to go ahead and say that sometimes, I triple cleanse. My version of triple cleansing would be to remove my makeup with the Cleanse Off Mitt, follow it up with the Dermalogica PreCleanse Balm, for example, and then cleanse with an active salicylic acid cleanser.
I’ve seen triple cleansing being described as…
Best case scenario, it’s just not truly necessary everyday at least and a waste of your skincare budget. Worst case scenario, you over-cleanse your skin, strip it of the natural oils that help to make up the acid mantle (the skin’s protective barrier). There are some key symptoms that you’ve over-cleansed or stripped your skin: your skin will feel very tight and dry after cleansing, you seem some flaking, irritation and redness, any spots you have are very red and inflamed and your skin may feel dry but still be producing too much oil.
Once you stop over-cleansing, your skin will essentially “fix” itself, but I find that using a product with fatty acids and skin-native lipids such as ceramides, and barrier-repairing niacinamide, can speed up this process. A skin hack, if you will!
Micellar water is the French not-so-fancy that allows us to remove our makeup in the blink of an eye and even from our bed if we so choose. It has become a staple in the PM skincare routines of many in the last decade or two and the appeal of it is clear: it’s easy, quick and “better than face wipes”. The reality of the matter is that micellar water is really more of a precleansing step than a full cleanse, and even at that, there are much more skin-beneficial precleansers out there.
My issue with micellar water isn’t even with all micellar waters, only some. I find that many of the traditional French pharmacy micellar waters and higher quality ones are not so bad at all in terms of ingredients. However, most people are picking up micellar waters that are full of potentially irritating and sensitising ingredients, such as butylene glycol and denatured alcohol.
Butylene glycol, for example, is actually a super beneficial penetrant enhancer and humectant ingredient. As an ingredient that helps other ingredients get into the skin, it gets an A+. However, when we’re leaving a layer of it on the skin overnight, what is it helping to penetrate? Unless it’s helping to get my hyaluronic acid or vitamins into my skin, I don’t want high amounts of it, thank you!
In my opinion, micellar water on its own simply does not have enough power to remove the grime, debris, sebum and physical pollution particles that end up on our skin by the end of the day. It ain’t got the muscle. On top of that, I’m not keen on cotton wool, as it can leave minuscule traces of cotton on your face overnight, which can also irritate your skin.
So, scenario, you are a micellar water user who likes how easy it is but doesn’t really understand why you are still seeing spots, redness, dehydration, dullness and irritation. I am here to tell you that it may be your micellar water usage contributing to this, particularly if this is all that you are using to “cleanse”. You need to swap it out and stat.
Here are my top micellar water alternatives:
The very reason I created an affordable, reusable and skin-friendly microfibre mitt was because I came across so many people who were using wipes and micellar water and wondering why their skin wasn’t healthy.
Yes, it requires that you are in your bathroom for 30 seconds. No, it is not much more effort than a micellar water. All you do is wet the Cleanse Off Mitt with warm water and glide it across your face (including your eye makeup).
That is it.
You need to wash it with antibacterial soap between uses, but that is the maximum effort that comes with the Cleanse Off Mitt. Just imagine the stack of cotton pads and wipes you’d be creating otherwise and that should be enough motivation to do it. Alternatively, bribe your partner or housemate into doing it for you - that is what love is, if you ask me.
This rich, creamy cleanser is formulated with those whose skin is easily irritated in mind. It has the added bonus of containing a probiotic that helps to colonise the skin’s bacteria to balance it plus rose oil which helps to heal the skin and prevent the growth of “bad” bacteria on the skin.
Now, the nerdie way to use this would be to remove your makeup with the Cleanse Off Mitt, massage the cleanser onto your wet, clean face, and remove the cleanser using the other side of the Cleanse Off Mitt. This mode ensures that the benefits of the cleanser will be felt, as there is no makeup, sebum or debris to get in its way, and that your skin is truly thoroughly cleansed.
If you are someone who is not certain that they are actually fully ready to move on from micellar water, the slightly lazier and less beneficial way would be to apply the cleanser directly to your makeup and then remove with the Cleanse Off Mitt. I try not to condone too much laziness when it comes to taking care of the skin, which is an organ, but we are busy, hustlin’ hoomans so I won’t preach.
Technically, the double cleanse is a micellar water alternative. Technically. However, are they alike at all? No. The double cleanse does require maybe 3 minutes at your sink maximum, and that’s if you’re a dilly-dallier, and it requires three products at any given cleanse. It was actually already mentioned in the above paragraph, so it’s not really news per se.
Why do we double cleanse? The double cleanse means that we get a multitude of skin benefits, and this applies to those who don’t wear makeup too, so keep reading!
To do the most basic nerdie double cleanse, you will remove your makeup with the Cleanse Off Mitt, or another gentle makeup removing step like a designated precleanse product or a plant oil that suits your specific skin, and follow it up with a more traditional cleanser. For example, if you have dry or dehydrated skin that needs a boost of hydration, antioxidant protection and a bit of evening out of the skin tone, the IMAGE Skincare Vital C Hydrating Facial Cleanser available on The Skin Nerd store) may be your second cleanse.
If you are perhaps oilier, or prone to congestion of any form such as blackheads or pesky under-the-skin spots, this second cleanse may be something that contains pore-clearing, sebum-reducing salicylic acid such as in the IMAGE Skincare Clear Cell Clarifying Gel Cleanser.
When it comes to exfoliating cleansers like this, you should really be using them every second or third night, and alternating them with something like the Biofresh Probiotic Cleansing Milk mentioned earlier. Over-exfoliating the skin can cause irritation and dehydration!
The price difference There is definitely a pretty large difference in cost when it comes to double cleansing vs. micellar water, but I will vouch for the fact that a full-sized traditional cleanser will last you 2 to 3 months.
If you get through a €10 bottle of micellar water once a month, it isn’t a massive price jump, especially considering there are more affordable and effective options out there too! In my opinion, it’s worthwhile to spend some money now on helping to look after your skin, rather than spending a lot of money in future trying to counteract the effects of not looking after it properly for decades.
]]>But while we understand the allure of cosmetic makeup, we have to turn your attention to our mineral MVPs. The nerdie philosophy is of course, inside, outside, and on top - and makeup very much counts, when it comes to on top!
The problem with cosmetic makeup is that it can be comedogenic, meaning it can lead to open comedones (blackheads) or closed comedones (whiteheads) - not good, since we’re usually trying our best to smooth out imperfections with the help of makeup. They can also contain talc, which dries up oil on the surface of the skin. It's believed by some that this dehydration leads to the skin over-correcting and prompting the skin to overproduce oil in response, and whole vicious, oily circles goes on and on.
As part of your Nerd Network consultation, your Nerd or Nerdette might have discussed makeup with you. We are hyped about mineral makeup - it sits on the pore due to its molecular size, not in the pore like cosmetic makeup.
And helpfully, oil binds to minerals which is good news for the oily hoomans, as it means that it creates a flawless base that isn't powdery and will stay on the skin more easily.
Best of all - common mineral makeup ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium oxide are natural UV filters, and provide a bit of extra antioxidant protection!
Síle Seoige is a big fan of mineral makeup, as is Cindy Crawford and Emma Watson!
But which mineral makeup is for you? Take our adorable quiz and find out…
You wear makeup …
Most 1s:
This mineral makeup range comes in 9 shades, and you can choose from either a dewy or matte finish. In our opinion, it works really well as a base for heading to work, and for night-time too, with a touch-up if needed! It provides buildable coverage, and is 100% mineral, so your skin is not smothered underneath it!
It contains hyaluronic acid and skin soothing aloe vera extracts, and also an SPF 50 PA+++ which makes excellent skin sense!
You can grab it on The Nerdie Store!
Mostly 2s:
Jane Iredale Glow Time Full Coverage Mineral BB Cream
This BB cream is a gorgeous mineral BB, ideal in our eyes for heading to work, particularly if you like a liquid texture, and want something that’s low-fuss! This mineral BB cream is also full-coverage, but you might need to put some mineral powder on top to keep it matte all day.
We suggest applying with clean fingers to get the desired coverage. It’s got a built-in SPF, depending on which shade you choose, and helps to diminish the appearance of acne scarring and pigmentation, as well as infusing your skin with a delightfully mineral glow.
Aimee Connolly Sculpted Beauty Base
This base is ideal if you want to go bare-faced but fancy getting that glow on.
It works as a moisturising primer and can be mixed with foundation if you like! It’s SPF 30 for UVA and UVB protection, as well as containing hyaluronic acid for skin hydration, peptides for plumping, and no flashback. Ideal for on-the-go or for just before you leave the house. You’re glowing, honey.
Glamazon alert! You’re a hooman who means business!
This is for the hooman who loves a beauty hall foundation and adores Marian Keyes' beauty advice. You might be wondering how on earth puny mineral makeup could ever measure up to your cosmetic loves, but that’s where Glo comes in.
This full-coverage foundation is semi-matte, and contains a blend of antioxidants including vitamins A, C, and E. It’s non comedogenic, despite giving such amazing coverage. It’s ideal for transitioning from cosmetic to mineral and keeping yourself as high-fashion as ever.
Fuschia 5g Loose Mineral Powder
Fuschia powder is ideal if you’ve already begun to use a powder form of foundation, but would like to continue or to use a form which does not use chemicals, preservative, alcohol, or dyes. Fuschia is also vegan friendly, and provides buildable, full coverage in 7 shades.
It requires a little bit of patience as the formulation is powder which needs to be applied with a buffing brush, but once you’re used to it, it works an absolute treat - and provides excellent coverage, so don’t be put off!In my opinion, natural is a term that is overused and perhaps conjures a false image of "better than", "better for" or "must buy over product/brand x,y,z". Natural ingredients such as lavender, tea tree, and ylang-ylang have undeniable benefits and I rate them highly.
But are they natural to your skin… or to a tree?! What I’m suggesting is that I wouldn’t necessarily assume that something labeled “natural” is automatically the best option. In my experience, the irony is that many natural products can also irritate the skin, so it's not only synthetic ingredients that can cause reactions.
Many skin care products, organic and alike, are endorsed by certain accrediting bodies for limiting the use of artificial chemicals. I say, hats off to a brand that searches for the title and prestige of paraben-free, mineral, oil-free etc. However, you are a human, so, therefore, you are a chemical.
In themselves, chemicals are not harmful but they can be if you consume too much. For example, water, or H2O, is necessary for survival, yet even too much of this essential resource is not ideal.
Before we go on any further, let it be known and placed on internet record that I do not dislike natural ingredients! Instead, I am all in favour of questioning the products we place in/on our body. We are increasingly careful when it comes to the ingredients that we put into our bodies and the sort of lifestyle factors which we subject ourselves, so it's definitely time that we start paying the same care to what products we put on our skin.
It's an organ, after all, and importantly, it gives as good as it gets. Whether natural or so-called chemical products are on the menu, it's all about the ingredients that make it onto our precious peau.
As a Rock, I enjoy nature!
I believe the greener the food inside the better! Additionally, I personally believe in skincare brands that are clinically proven and blind-end tested (aka doctor proven in independent labs). I endorse these as I feel they mirror image and mimic the functional and natural capabilities of the skin.
For example, retinol is a topical irritant, but it’s found within our blood. So it’s natural, yet needs your skin needs to acclimatise to it.
Vitamins are natural and necessary, yet we don't make Vitamin C ourselves, and need to take it in through diet or apply it topically directly to our skin.
For people with acne-prone skin looking for home remedies, I cannot find anything in nature that mops up my oil and dissolves spots like salicylic acid. Where is acid derived from? The willow bark tree, so I can effectively market it as natural!
The purpose of this article is not to confuse or to sway you one way or another. Instead, I wanted to show both sides, and that it’s good to take each ingredient on its own merits rather than automatically assume that “natural” trumps “chemicals” and vice versa.
I'm off now to make and mix coconut oil and brown sugar together for my dry lips, while having a Voya seaweed bath with Skinceuticals hyaluronic (another ingredient found inside us humans but synthetically mirrored), and then apply an ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) mask.
Moderation is everything, and the important part is always consideration of what your individual skin needs!
]]>Does she need any introduction? We think not, but just in case - Nadine Baggott is a beauty journalist, presenter, and influencer! She is one of the foremost voices of beauty in the UK, and loves to tell it like it is, as well as having a huge variety of favourite products across a range of different budgets, and targeting different skin concerns!
You can check out her YouTube channel here, where she uploads regularly, or check out her Twitter here!
She’s also super active on Instagram, where you can see her frequent Lives!
Sali Hughes is a columnist with the Guardian, beauty editor, author, host, and all-round beauty expert and the co-founder of Beauty Banks, a charity focussed on providing hygiene and sanitary products to those in need. Definitely worth following on IG for her product reviews, and on Twitter too, for an unfiltered view of the beauty world!
Caroline Hirons identifies herself as an “aesthetician, brand consultant, skincare activist”. Caroline is vehement in her hate for wipes, and has a very keen radar for what she calls ‘nonsense’ in her polite moments! She is extremely honest in her opinions, and a true comedy queen as well as skincare expert!
Follow her on her Instagram and Twitter for frequent updates!
More recently discovered that the queens above, Steven Ko is a cosmetic formulator who can be found on LabMuffin’s YouTube channel, and posts a good deal on interesting beauty science on their own Instagram channel (as well as answering your burning scientific questions). He has his own website and and is developing his own vitamin C serum. His website curates beauty content from across the board, including new research and studies, controversial topics and brand launch coverage.
Gio is another scientific creator who tackles the beauty industry with a whole lot of wit and a host of scientific information! If you’re looking to fill some of your free time with scientific knowledge, then this is the right channel to get lost in!
Let us know what you think - how many do you follow already?
]]>Are you a skincare mastermind or epidermal dunce? Find out by answering our quiz below. And no cheating!
Question 1 (an easy one to start): Finish this sentence: Your skin is an …
ANSWER: 2! Your skin is, in fact, your largest organ - and as Aretha and Jenn both say, as such, it deserves some R-E-S-P-E-C-T.
Question 2: What does vitamin A do for your skin?
ANSWER: We will accept both 3 and 4. Vitamin A can affect cellular change to your skin, aid cell turnover, re-educates and renews your skin!
Question 3: Which of the following is a list of chemical exfoliants?
ANSWER: The answer to this one is, of course, 1 - glycolic acid, mandelic acid and salicylic acid are all chemical exfoliants!
Question 4: Which is better for your skin - sun or sand?
ANSWER: This was a bit of a trick question. Sun is not an enemy. We need it for vitamin D production, and it can also have a profound effect on mood and mental health.
However, exposure to sun without protection can have a negative impact on our skin health, and, as we have become increasingly aware over the last twenty years, can contribute to the development of skin cancer. Sunlight can also prematurely age our skin by degrading our collagen and elastin.
Sand isn’t actually bad for your skin, technically. Some folks suggest that it can be a great natural exfoliator, but we suggest keeping it to your feet and bod, not heading down the strand and scrubbing your face with the stuff. No, thank you.
Question 5: You should wear SPF:
ANSWER: We hope you got this one. The answer is 1! Every. Gosh. Darn. Day. If you’re going to be exposed to sunlight throughout the day, then reapplying is definitely encouraged, so we’ll allow 2, too!
Question 6: How does an antioxidant work?
ANSWER: The answer to this particular pickle is 1! Antioxidants neutralise free radicals. Free radicals are unpaired molecules introduced into your body by environmental or lifestyle factors. If too many accumulate or wander unpaired through your body, they can do you mischief. Antioxidants pair off with free radicals to neutralise them.
Question 7: An average skin cycle takes …
ANSWER: If you said 2, 35 days - then close, but no cigar! The average skin cycle takes 28 days! This means that if you start using a product today, it’ll take approximately 28 days to see a change in your skin as a result.
Patience is a virtue, but skincare is everything.
Question 9: The thinnest skin on your body is …
ANSWER: 4) Your eyelids are the correct answer! They are less than a millimetre thick, and although your lips come close, eyelids pip them to the post.
Question 10: True or false: you can no longer develop acne post-25.
ANSWER: A resounding 1)! False, false, false. Unfortunately, we can develop acne at nearly any point in our lives, depending on hormonal or environmental factors and how they play out.
So, how did you do? Let’s consider …
1-3 Correct
We’re not saying going to make you write lines, but if we were, they would probably say, ‘the skin is an organ… respect it accordingly!’ We’re banishing you back to the drawing board (no, we’re not), and hoping that you have a chance to tune into a few Facebook Lives and blogs to get yourself an education!
4-7 Correct
You’re an apprentice Nerd, at this point. You’ve been paying attention and getting to grips with just what the heck the skin actually is, but perfection is an illusion, and one can always seek to improve.
7-10 Correct
Nerdie credentials and street cred pretty much intact! Congratulations on your skintelligence - you certainly know your lipids from your liquorice roots, and your ceramides from your keratin!
]]>Skin needs vitamin A, it’s true, but skin can’t handle us throwing the proverbial kitchen sink at it without a bit of build-up beforehand. That’s where the Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST comes in!
Why Does My Skin Need Vitamin A?
Vitamin A is the building block of healthy skin. It’s a potent antioxidant which helps to control the production of sebum, diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce inflammation, evens skin tone, regulates sebum production, and prevents breakouts.
Vitamin A is one of the most important ingredients for your skin, and it’s a nerdie priority when it comes to our Nerd Networkers.
What is Environ AVST?
Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 1 is the first in a step-up system which gradually introduces more vitamin A to your skin in increasing amounts. It’s like strength training, but for your skin - so no dodgy elastics required.
The Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser is a vitamin-rich moisturiser (or serum, in our eyes), which contains larger amounts of vitamins with each step up. It’s ideal for hoomans looking to combat ageing, and to give their skin a wide range of vitamins and nutrients, and start their vitamin A journey - one of the most important ingredients for the skin, in our opinion.
Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST is composed of a step-up system of 5 levels.
The gel, level 1, and level 2 are all safe for use during pregnancy, but none of the other levels are recommended for use while growing a mini-hooman!
You can’t purchase AVST without first attending one of our online consultations, at which your Nerd or Nerdette will unlock the AVST range if they recommend it for you!
However, your Nerd or Nerdette will only unlock one level at a time - and you must finish a full bottle of AVST 1 in 12 weeks in order to be eligible to purchase AVST 2, and this will carry on as you progress up the levels. This is to minimize the chance of your skin reacting negatively to the increased levels of vitamin A - and the reason that you have to return to AVST 1 all over again after a prolonged break.
It's a game where the prize is super healthy, resilient skin!
Why Should I Continue Increasing My Level of AVST?
AVST is a step-up system, with increasing levels of vitamin A - the more vitamin A your skin can handle, the better, and the more effective the product can be in improving the condition of your skin.
As well as vitamin A, AVST contains vitamin C, peptides and antioxidants, all of which contribute to reducing the appearance of ageing in the skin, and is helpful when it comes to tackling sun damage in skin, too!
What About After AVST?
Home-rolling, or dermal rolling with the Environ CIT is another step along the AVST journey.
Home-rolling comes when you’re a little more advanced in the programme, generally when you have used two bottles of AVST, and your skin is happy and strong and vibrant as Ben says, as it is a form of cosmetic needling which it is possible to do at home!
Home-rolling is the process by which we needle the outer layer of the skin with a home-rolling device (no deeper than 0.3mm!). It helps with Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT), by helping the products to more deeply penetrate your skin!
You can watch our Nerd Network Exclusive Facebook Live all about home-rolling here!
When To Use AVST
You can use AVST after cleansing - Environ call it a moisturiser, but in the Nerd Network, we prefer to call it a serum! We suggest applying it after cleansing, in two pumps, as your first serum post cleansing, both AM and PM!
Since it’s super potent, you need to monitor its shelf-life, as it can become less effective after 12 weeks open.
If you’re curious about AVST, you can get in touch with your Nerd or Nerdette to discuss it by emailing us, or sending a message to NerdsApp on +353 877070936!
]]>Just what is an antioxidant when it’s at home? We know that we ought to be getting as many antioxidants into our diet as possible, but just what purpose do they serve? And - what do they do for your skin?
What Do Antioxidants Do?
Antioxidants are the underdog of the skincare world.
Antioxidants are molecules which fight free radicals in your body. We can introduce them to our bodies through diet or through topical application (hiya, serums). Antioxidants are often found in the food which we eat on a daily basis. They do the job of fighting free radicals, which, when left to their own awful devices, can wreak havoc on your body.
Vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, selenium, and zinc are all antioxidants which we take in through our food - but if they sound familiar, it’s because they are also present in a lot of skincare!
Free radicals are unpaired molecules, which means that they are unstable - not good. Jam those safety goggles on, because we’re digging back into Leaving Cert chemistry class.
Our bodies and our world is basically an enormous, on-going chemical reaction - life is a free radical exposure site. Chemical reactions occur as a result of the food we eat, air we breathe, water we drink, if we smoke, drink alcohol, exist in a polluted atmosphere - the list goes on.
Free radicals are also the result of chemical processes in our body, so they’re unavoidable. When a reaction occurs, sometimes this results in molecules splitting and leaving unpaired molecules - our pals, free radicals. These free radicals can attack the body on the hunt for another electron to pair with, which is where damage can occur. Free radical damage leads to premature ageing, as well as a host of other problems, which is why antioxidants are always welcome.
What Are Antioxidants?
Antioxidants are the heroes who enter our body and take one for the team by pairing off with these free radicals, stopping their reign of terror in our bodies. Which means that the more antioxidants in your body or on your skin, the better things are for you.
When it comes to diet, fruit and vegetables are all high in antioxidants. Foods like strawberries, blueberries, kidney beans, black beans, plums, and dark, leafy greens are all rich in antioxidants (and delicious to boot).
Why Apply Antioxidants To Your Skin?
Applying antioxidants to your skin can fight free radicals, and neutralise reactions which might otherwise induce or aggravate dermatoses - which is a nerdie word for a disease of the skin. They can also diminish signs of ageing, reduce inflammation, protect your skin from potential disease, brighten skin tone, and even help skin to repair!
Is there anything they can’t do?
Superstar Antioxidants
We don’t have a hall of fame of antioxidants (yet), but we do have some favourites.
Vitamin C
This potent antioxidant pairs with free radicals in your skin, but is also stellar at reducing the appearance of pigmentation, and for anti-ageing benefits too. It needs to be carefully stored, as it can lose its potency fast, if it’s not stored somewhere cool and dark. If you’re using a vitamin-C based product, we would advise against opening it until you’re ready to start using it.
The Vital C range from IMAGE is an ideal source of Vitamin C. Our choice would be IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Antioxidant A C E Serum. It also contains vitamins A and E, and the vitamin C within it is in a very stable form.
Vitamin A
Retinol, or vitamin A, is one of the best ingredients for skin health. It normalises sebum production, improves the appearance of pores, reduces inflammation, prompts skin proliferation and promotes cell renewal. It’s also a powerful antioxidant to boot, and is a very important ingredient for all skin types, although it is not usable by pregnant hoomans.
Skingredients Skin Protein contains retinyl palmitate, which is a gentler form of vitamin A. It is converted to retinoic acid in the skin, but it is suitable for more sensitive skin, which can be an issue with retinol. Retinyl palmitate is still an antioxidant, and Skin Protein also contains the powerful antioxidants rooibos tea extract, green tea extract, vitamin E, and vitamin C.
Polyphenols
You have probably heard that green tea is an excellent source of antioxidants, and the word on the street is true. It can protect the skin from environmental factors when applied topically. Rooibos tea is another great source of antioxidants.
The IMAGE Ormedic Balancing Antioxidant Serum contains Japanese green tea (nerdie name: camellia sinesis, or epigallocatechin gallate), as well as a blend of other potent antioxidants. It’s vegan friendly, too!
Niacinamide
Niacinamide is the same as vitamin B - another super potent antioxidant, which fights free radicals as well as providing a host of other benefits.
Niacinamide is key when it comes to maintaining a healthy epidermis, and keeping your skin barrier stable and fully functional. It improves skin texture and tone, and is a powerful antioxidant, too! It is suitable for all skin types and is often recommended to acne and rosacea sufferers as it can help with inflammation, as well as reducing the appearance of fine lines.
Skin Formulas Vit A Serum is an ideal serum for combining Vitamin A with niacinamide. This powerful serum is formulated with botanical retinoid and niacinamide, to stimulate your skin’s natural collagen and elastin production. It also increases skin firmness, and evens skin tone.
Supplements
You can also include supplements in your life through supplementation. Solgar Nutri Nano COQ-10 3.1 Supplements contain a potent antioxidant which can also help to improve your energy levels.
Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Vit A+ is another great option for bumping up your antioxidants and giving your body the vitamin A which it might not be getting otherwise. We’re all familiar with a vitamin C supplement, particularly if we have a cold threatening - but we particularly enjoy Advanced Nutrition Programme Skin Vit C for getting an antioxidant boost, while also prompting collagen production!
Oxidative stress (our body’s response to oxygen) is the thing that causes free radicals to go about their merry way, but due to life taking place largely on earth, until Elon Musk gets his way, it’s going to be something that we have to deal with. We can counter free radicals by introducing antioxidants into our diets and topically onto our skin. Moderation is everything - but we could probably all do with a bit more antioxidant goodness in our lives, and on our skin!
What Are The Benefits of Retinol?
Retinol, when applied topically, is very powerful. Vitamin A, from which retinol is formed, is one of the only ingredients which can change skin on a cellular level.
When it comes to holy grail ingredients, retinol can really seem like it has it all. It helps to normalise sebum production, prompt skin proliferation (which can slow down dramatically age we age), prompt our skin to continue producing collagen and elastin, reduce inflammation, and speed up healing!
Retinyl Palmitate
You might have heard of retinol down the grapevine, but it’s only part of the picture. In skincare, you can also find retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate and other forms of vitamin A, including the plant form, betacarotene, in Skingredients Skin Protein.
It’s possible that your skin won’t immediately be able to handle retinol in higher doses, and might have what is called a retinoid response - becoming inflamed or irritated. Retinol can cause skin redness, flaking, and peeling, particularly when you start to use the product. This is why it’s suggested that retinol is only used once a week to begin with, and slowly built up, low and slow!
Retinyl palmitate is a gentler form of topical vitamin A, or retinoids, which is used in many skincare products as an alternative to stronger retinol, to make this product more accessible to a wider range of hoomans!
Skingredients Skin Protein uses retinyl palmitate as its form of vitamin A. This form of vitamin A speeds up skin renewal, re-educates skin, and provides all the benefits of vitamin A, but in a gentler form. It needs to go through a conversion process to be effective.
There are many forms of retinyl palmitate, but we opt for the plant-form ourselves! Others can, however, definitely be sprinkled into your own routine!
Nerdie Retinol Picks
Image MD Retinol Booster - €92.00
This Nerd-Network exclusive product contains a blend of omega-3 and omega-6 oils infused with retinol. It’s a strong formulation to combat signs of premature ageing and environmental damage, and keeping hydration levels in your skin high. It’s ideal for more limited than everyday use.
Skingredients Skin Protein Vitamin A, C + E Serum - €42.00
This anti-ageing serum contains retinyl palmitate to revamp, restore, and re-educate the skin. It is suitable for more sensitive skin, and contains antioxidants as well as a patented pro-collagen peptides to prompt collagen and elastin production in the skin.
Neostrata Skin Active Retinol + NAG Complex - €80.00
This serum contains 0.5% pure, stabilised retinol which can help to improve the appearance of skin firmness, reduce the appearance of pigmentation and smooth lines and wrinkles. It also contains NeoGlucosamine, a patented ingredient from Neostrata, to intensify the effects of the retinol.
Tips for Using Retinol!
Retinol can be a sweet dream or a beautiful nightmare - it all depends on how diligently you apply it!
Here’s some retinol tips for you:
Vitamin A is super important for your skin, so if you’re having trouble deciding which product would be best for you, call up your Nerd or Nerdette, or drop a message to our Nerd Network exclusive NerdsApp line on +353877070936 with any of your questions or queries!
]]>Galentines is a perfect opportunity to treat both yourself, your partner or the gals to some good old fashioned pampering. Candlelit restaurants are passé. Yes, we said it.
- Gals (or guys - hoomans who love skincare)
- Skincare products (we’ll go into more detail on that below)
- Scented candles. Smells don’t change cells but they certainly help to set a relaxing atmosphere - if you’re feeling extra extra fancy, we love Yon-Ka, Waxperts and Pippa candles but the Aldi No 1 candle is delicious, too.
- Playing Enya - Alexa, play Orinoco Flow, please and thanks.
- Galentine's Themed Snacks. We wouldn’t dare to tell you what to bring, but apart from the naughty bits that you might pick up, strawberries are both on-brand for Galentine's Day and are good for your skin health, too (they’re rich in vitamin C!). Dip them in dark chocolate for extra antioxidants.
Your Galentine's Night Skincare Routine
Galentine's night is the ideal time to spread the pre-cleanse word to the gals, if they have yet to hear the good news. The only drawback is now they’ll know the secret to your fabulous skin.
Pre-cleanse with the Cleanse Off Mitt and warm water to remove any makeup, SPF, or pollution from the day from your skin. We would suggest the pink COM, given the day that’s in it.
When you’ve pre-cleansed, you deserve a luxurious cleanser to really purify and prep your skin for the next steps.
For a cleansing treat, we can suggest Declare Soft Cleansing Gentle Cleansing Milk. This cleanser comes from Switzerland and brings a bit of Swiss luxury with it, at a reasonable price point! It’s ideal for even dry, dehydrated or sensitive skin.
You could also bring a bit of Skingredients into the room with PreProbiotic Cleanse. Super gentle, ideal for makeup removal, and emulsifies into a creamy texture, bringing the spa feeling home to roost.
To bring a bit of spa luxury to your home, we could also recommend the Irish brand Seavite, and their Seavite Super Nutrient Comfort Cleanser. With seaweed extracts, it certainly fits the pamper night vibe, and is also super gentle and balancing!
These are both suitable for all skin types - so ideal for a pamper night!
We don’t believe that you always need a toner day-to-day - this is because so many toners can be stripping, and we believe in feeding the skin with good stuff rather than stripping it away. However, we have some skin-friendly suggestions which might truly put the icing on the cake of your pamper night!
Spritzes are an integral element in tonnes of facials, as they help with product penetration and hydration - and they feel amazing, too!
The Caudalie Beauty Elixir is perfect for boosting skin hydrating, smoothing fine lines and even providing an antioxidant boost to your skin! You could also opt for the Ella & Jo 3 in 1 Hyaluronic Skin Mist, an oil-reducing spritz and toner with extracts of chamomile, cucumber, witch hazel, aloe vera & green tea.
Step 3: Serum Time
Serums can be a super decadent way of treating your skin, and particular for the day that’s in it, we have a selection of some show-stopping serums to make sure that you shine bright like the diamond that you are.
When it comes to making an impact, we have a real weakness for a good hyaluronic acid-rich serum, as these can work to instantly plump skin and have a stunning effect on skin!
Skingredients Skin Veg is a pre-serum, and a penetrant enhancer, and so ideal for application before your choice of serum. It’s got hydrating sodium hyaluronate, sure to give you a proper glow - the sort of glow that only Galentine's can give!
The Skin Formulas Hydra Serum contains three weights of hyaluronic acid, and helps to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, as well as stimulating your skin to produce collagen over time.
ASAP Skincare Super C Serum is an ideal hydrating serum, particularly useful for the hoomans with dry skin! It’s suitable for all skin types, however, and it suitable for use during pregnancy - as well as being vegan!
Step 4: Masks, Of Course
Would it really be a pamper night without masks? We’re not so sure. Honestly, you could just do a mask night. We’ve got a selection of masks to recommend, so you’re bound to find the right one.
MINI SPA (on a budget):
The Seoulista Super Hydration Instant Facial Sheet Mask is ideal for hydrating and plumping up skin as it’s also packed with hyaluronic acid! It’s biodegradable too, making it ideal for your sustainable Galentine's night in.
MIDI SPA (splashing out a little)
You can also try the Add-on Beauty Dry Mask - Skin Detox, which can be reused four times. It’s ideal for clearing pores and leaving your skin feeling truly fresh and pampered.
MAXI SPA (full relaxation)
YonKa Hydra N˚ 1 Masque can be applied post-cleanse, and before serums. You can leave it on overnight, if you like, before cleansing it away in the morning. It’s perfect for providing super hydration, particularly when your skin has been zapped of moisture. It’s also ideal for applying and then taking cute Galentine's snaps of you all in your masks. Just saying.
You could also try the REN Glycolactic Radiance Renewal Mask - you’ll get tonnes of use out of it. It’s ideal for more mature skin, or skin dealing with sun damage. Bonus points to it, because it peels off super satisfyingly.
Since it’s most likely night-time when all of this pampering is happening, there’s no need to complete this routine with an SPF! We suggest you hunker down (sheet mask on, preferably) and watch Sleepless in Seattle, Bridget Jones’ Diary, To All The Boys I Loved Before, or Steel Magnolias, if you really want to have a cathartic weep.
Here’s to you, on the most pampered day of the year!
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