Mind the barrier

The ingredients you need to strengthen and soothe the skin barrier 

If your skin ever feels tight, reactive or just plain “off,” chances are your barrier is waving a white flag. The skin barrier - also known as the stratum corneum - is your body’s built-in security system, made up of tightly packed skin cells and essential lipids that act like bricks and mortar. Its job? Keep the good stuff in (like hydration) and the bad stuff out (think pollutants, irritants and pathogens). 

But between harsh exfoliants, climate stress, and skincare overload, this critical layer often takes a hit. And when it’s compromised, your skin lets you know with tell-tale signs such as redness, dryness, irritation and discomfort. 

Today, barrier care is no longer a niche concern for sensitive skin; it’s the new baseline of long-term skincare. Those in the know are moving beyond instant results to seek formulations that prioritise recovery, resilience and long-term skin harmony. And many of today’s smart skincare formulations are filled with ingredients that do more than mask the damage. They rebuild, replenish, and restore. Below, we unpack the most soothing and strengthening barrier boosters:  

Ceramides - To seal, soothe and support 

Ceramides are the lipids naturally found in your stratum corneum. When they’re depleted, your skin becomes prone to sensitivity, dryness, and inflammation. Topical ceramides restore this critical barrier function, preventing transepidermal water loss and shielding skin from irritants.  

How to spot them: Look for ceramide NP, ceramide AP, or ceramide EOP on your ingredient list.  

Niacinamide - To calm redness 

This form of vitamin B3 improves barrier function by stimulating ceramide synthesis, reducing inflammation and minimising redness. It also has antioxidant properties and regulates sebum, making it ideal for breakout-prone skin that’s also sensitised. 

Tips for use: Stay within 2–5% for calming effects - higher concentrations may be too stimulating for reactive skin. 

Centella Asiatica - To heal and soothe 

Rich in triterpenes like madecassoside and asiaticoside, Centella Asiatica reduces oxidative stress, promotes collagen synthesis and soothes inflammation. It’s especially effective post-exfoliation or when skin is recovering from treatments like retinoids or peels. 

What to look for: Centella extracts or purified are increasingly used in concentrated serums and cream formats. 

Oat lipids & Colloidal oatmeal - To smooth and comfort 

Colloidal oatmeal contains beta-glucans and avenanthramides that quell irritation and itchiness. Oat lipids mimic natural skin oils, restoring balance and promoting barrier function - without clogging pores or causing flare-ups. 

Ideal for: Eczema-prone skin and post-shave irritation. 

Squalane - Lightweight but lipid-rich 

Squalane is a stable lipid that mimics skin’s own sebum. It restores moisture, improves elasticity, and has a luxurious texture that melts into skin. Because it’s biocompatible and non-comedogenic, it’s safe for acne-prone or post-treatment skin that’s craving comfort. 

Bonus trait: It also helps buffer active ingredients like retinoids, making them more tolerable for sensitive skin types. 

Barrier health is more than skin-deep. It influences how your complexion looks and feels and how your skincare products perform. By choosing ingredients that don’t just hydrate but heal, protect, and restore, you give your skin the resilience it needs to face the world with confidence.